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Gateway Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broken Glass T 
False Tumbling Rainbow T 
Hands Away T 
In The Pit T 
Lay Back And Do It TR 
Martin Quits T 
Pit Bull Attack T 
Semi Tough T 
Solo T 

Martin Quits 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jon Lonne & Dave Ohlsen, September 1976
Page Views: 1,038
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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BETA PHOTO: Martin Quits


This line is described as being on Gateway Rocks, but is actually an east-facing line about half-way between the Gateway and the Tumbling Rainbow formation. This short, striking fingercrack stands alone and is obvious when viewed from most points on the south or east sides of the Valley Loop trail. Approach as for routes such as Semi Tough but continue further west to the east-facing wall.

Belay in the jumbled boulders at the base of the route and cast off upwards on good locks with good gear for the entire route.

If it were a full pich long, it would be a classic, but it's just too short to rave about. I guess for it's length it is great. In fact, if it were 3X as long, it would be a whole pitch! Fun none the less.


1 run of cams from the smallest you have to 2".A few larger units for a top-anchor/belay if desired. Nuts could also be used to pro the entire line.

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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 22, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Short but fierce in my opinion. Painful finger locks with marginal feet through the first 20 feet. The gear is good though.
By ccmski
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 3, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Bottom is pumpy and the crux- just plug and chug. Rock is painfully sharp
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Dec 28, 2013

This would have more stars if longer. Quality climbing.

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