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Martian Route S 
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Martian Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Fred Aschert & Bob Robertson, 1970s
Page Views: 1,984
Submitted By: Ryan Carlino on Apr 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Shot of the 3 fixed anchors. These are right abov...

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Description 

This a decent route up small ledges. It has some fun, balancy moves and a bird cave filled with dookie adds to charm.

Location 

This lies on the "second tier" of Keyhole. From the South End Topropes of Kindergarten (Cathedral), hike west, uphill on a dirt trail to a saddle. The second tier is on your right. You can access the top of the climb by hiking around back, into a small canyon between 2 fins. A little hiking gets you to a place where you can walk on top of the fin of interest. Pass a large boulder and walk the top of the fin to the anchors.

Protection 

The books talk about 4 pins - I only saw 3. It'd be a hairy lead, as the first pin is way up there. It can be toproped off a 2-pin plus a bolt anchor with appropriate slings and biners.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Shot of Martian Route and Water Gully.  Route line...
BETA PHOTO: Shot of Martian Route and Water Gully. Route line...

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By Stephen Carlos Rydalch
From: Golden, CO
Oct 13, 2009

I also only found 3 pro bolts on the route, with the first one about 30 feet up. They are old ring pins.

The route has great TR access with 2 pitons at the top, plus a crack to back up from with a cam.

A very fun, sustained route.
By Nick Leuck
From: Evergreen, CO
Feb 29, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

I'm going to pretend that some flakes broke off at the bottom as an excuse for my poor performance. I could not make it up to the first pin on the slab. It looks like there are more holds after the the first pin (20-30? ft up), but the nerves got the better of me, and I couldn't commit to some moves. I'm not a super strong climber, but usually a 5.8-rated climb isn't this difficult for me. Looks like it'd be nice on TR, however.
By Bob Robertson
Aug 1, 2016

Fred Aschert & I got the first ascent in the late '70s.

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