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Martello Buttress
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Martello Buttress T 

Martello Buttress 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Fergus Graham 1922
Page Views: 20
Submitted By: rdlennon on Nov 19, 2008

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Martello Buttress


This bizarre, wandering line tentatively makes its way up the Martello Buttress with surprisingly fun movements and interesting holds. While there are many awkward moments, the climb is much more memorable than other less varied classics, and thus deserves three stars.

There are several starts. The usual one involves mounting a detached block only a few moves off the ground. (Other starts come in from the left and right.) Once on the block, make insecure body-jam moves up and left on the sloping shelf to a short vertical crack. With difficulty, place in this and stand up. That's the crux. Layback the crack to a shelf, then traverse left on good foot ledges to a flake. Layback this another 15 feet to gain yet another shelf and another leftward traverse. Eventually, reach a small ledge just on the left arete of the buttress. Make a reachy move to a horn, then continue past a break to the top and a slopey mantle. Crazy and fun!


To the left of Heaven Crack. Takes a left-leaning line from the center of the face and a large protruding block towards the left arete.


A variety of hand-sized gear and some small nuts. Long runners essential in reducing rope drag. The anchor at the top is a long ways back.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Martello Buttress follows the central/left hand fl...
Martello Buttress follows the central/left hand fl...

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