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Tower Two Area
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Marshmallow Crack 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 268
Submitted By: Jordan Cannon on Apr 25, 2016

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Start in the corner on the right, traverse the hor...

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Description 

Next step after Marshmallow Tower 10c. Start on the north side of the formation and do some awkward chimney moves between the two boulders to gain the horizontal crack, place a couple pieces where you can and then bust some cruxy moves around the corner on slopers to gain the horizontal finger crack. Bad fall here, no pro through the crux- make sure you have a good belayer, a crashpad might also be a good idea.

I tried this thing about 2 years ago and it seemed impossible, but it's much easier once you figure out the secret knee bar beta. The crux is 5.11 and the finger crack is 5.10+. Falling mid crux isn't that bad, just be ready to swing into the rocks!

Location 

Approach via the trail to Tower Two. You can see the Marshmallow Tower from the service road with some slime coming out of the horizontal and an obvious splitter to the top. Bolts on top to rappel.

Protection 

Thin to .4 and doubles of .5 camalot, anchors on top.


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By Jordan Cannon
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 25, 2016

Not sure who did the FA or what the proper name of the route is. If you have any feedback, let me know!

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