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Looking up to belay anchors on Marshall's Madn...
(Marshall's didn't have a page separate from Crack of Dawn so this was created)
This is a classic! Three excellent pitches, but some or all can be combined. A lot of parties only do the first one, but all three offer great climbing.
1. Start at an obvious hand/fist crack on the left of the Face of a Thousand Pitons. Climb through a small overhang to the first belay (visible from the ground).
2. Continue straight up through widening cracks, eventually traversing left on easier ground to a 3-bolt belay on a ledge on the left face (which won't be visible until you get there).
3. Move back to the right, climb straight up the face/cracks to a small chimney. At the chimney move right to a very small ledge and cold shuts (this is also the top of Crack of Dawn).
Left side of the Face of a Thousand Pitons. This route shares a start with Crack of Dawn.
Two ropes will get you all the way down. With a single rope, stopping at the anchors on Triple S is one easy way down.
Great pro all the way up. Bolted belay anchors.
By John Ely
Nov 20, 2012
The original route traversed in to the first belay from the Triple S corner, which is 5.8 and makes the whole thing a strenuous but beautiful 5.8.