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Marquis de Sade 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 2001
Page Views: 3,414
Submitted By: TBD on Oct 18, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Climbing up the slab section.

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  • Description 

    Marquis de Sade is the fifth route from the left on the First Tier, right of Body Count. It is on the right side of the obvious near vertical face. Follow the bolts up the face, and climb a short finger crack (crux) to the obvious roof above. Climb up to the right of the roof and then pull up and left to surmount the roof. Try not to chimney off the block to the right.

    The crux comes before the roof at a tricky finger lock with difficult feet. May be more difficult for those with a short reach or poor crack technique.

    Protection 

    7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


    Photos of Marquis de Sade Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Checking out Marquis of Sade.
    Checking out Marquis of Sade.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Stepping over the fun roof.
    Stepping over the fun roof.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Before the crux.
    Before the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Just below crux.
    Just below crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Roof has an interesting fun move.
    Roof has an interesting fun move.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Marquis de Sade.  The crux is the slanting finger ...
    BETA PHOTO: Marquis de Sade. The crux is the slanting finger ...

    Comments on Marquis de Sade Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 25, 2003
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    A pumpy route with several hard sections. The crux finger crack seems harder than 10c; I'd call it 10d. The moves over the roof are exciting and the 7th bolt (above the roof) is a tough clip.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 20, 2005

    I liked stemming off the block behind to go over the roof. At least, it was more fun than pretending it wasn't there.
    By Wanderinfree Chrislip
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 30, 2006
    rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    I have to agree. The crux crack move was really thin for 10c.
    By tooTALLtim
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 13, 2007

    I wasn't going to stem the block at first, but it was more fun than worrying about "style". JUST HAVE FUN
    By Matt Gates
    From: Pinewood Springs, CO
    Jun 2, 2007
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Finger crack is not too bad (not easy either). I stuck my left foot in the crack and found purchase for my right on a little something on the face. The roof moves are a riot w/ many big holds to choose from. Best to move quickly in order to have some gas to clip the bolt above the roof.
    By claytown
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 2, 2007

    Interesting the way that the crack in the roof was sealed up to prevent the rope from getting stuck. Normally I'm not in favor of altering the rock, but it seems to be quite useful here.

    CL
    By CA3
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Jul 25, 2011

    10d, crux was a tough move requiring good technique (especially for a short person like me).
    By Angel Robledo
    Sep 18, 2015

    I climbed it today, didn't have a guidebook with me, just a few notes from mountain project. I wanted to do some easy routes, so I though this was a 5.9, and I climbed the whole thing thinking: "this is a hard 5.9". The finger crack have to be quick to get to the bolt and clip, I didn't get pumped. It's a nice technical route, mainly legs, but below the roof, it took me some time to figure out. I did chimney using the rock on the right, it was easy when I found the way. After I finished, I was asking a climber with a book which route was that and he said: "Marquis of Sade, 10c", that's when I found out it wasn't a hard 5.9.
    By S. Neoh
    Sep 3, 2017
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Good climb. For me, only the awkward roof took half a star away from being a great route. Harder than Lust on Tarot Wall, IMHO.

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