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Marmolada Group

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Punta Ombretta 
Punta Penia 
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Via Ferrata 

Marmolada Group Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 9,076'
Location: 46.4422, 11.85875 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,343
Administrators: Tim Wolfe, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kristine Hoffman on Nov 30, 2014
Forecast:
Thursday

37° | 23°
Friday

36° | 23°
Saturday

29° | 15°
Sunday

24° | 13°
Monday

33° | 16°
Tuesday

36° | 22°
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NE flank of Marmolada - Punta Serauta ridge up whi...

Description 

Marmolada is the “Queen of the Dolomites.” This mountain is the highest mountain in the range, has the only permanent glacier in the range (north side) and has the largest sheer wall in the range (south face – 800 meters high, 3 kilometers long) with many famous and ground breaking routes on this face. The climbs here are so big that it is highly recommended you climb with a bivy sac as it is likely you will need one before the climb is over due to both the length of the routes and the descent required. The “best” descent is likely the cable car – 3 sections of tramway leading all the way to the Eastern base of the mountain. However, this tram closes at 4 pm so it can be difficult to catch on the day you start the climb (be sure to bring 20+ euros to use the tram). The other descent requires glacial travel for 3 or more hours (and all the gear and safety issues surrounding this aspect of climbing) making it somewhat unattractive to someone climbing 20-30 pitches of south facing rock. All these descents, except that which goes down the far western ridge back to the South side, take you away from the starting point adding further logistical issues to your plans (basically you should stay in Rifugio Falier or Refugio Contrin and bring only the gear and clothes you will use on the ascent).

Getting There 

South Face: For the Western (Left) section of the South face hike into Rifigio Contrin on trail 602 out of Alba (2 km south of Canazei). From here you can hike up over Passo Ombretta to access Marmolada di Penia and you can return to the hut at the end of the climb or to a bivouac on Ombretta pass. For the Central and Eastern portions of the wall (Marmolada di Rocca, Marmolada d'Ombretta) drive to Malga Ciapela (the village where the the Marmolada tram/cable car station is located) and drive up past the camping area to a car park west of town. Hike in 90 minutes to Rifugio Falier and access your routes from there for an early start.

North face mixed routes, via Ferrata and sport climbs: From Canazei drive south east towards Alba (First exit on the round about leaving town) and head up hill towards Passo di Fedaia. Park in the appropriate area to access the routes you desire.

If you intend to use the cable car for descent (which is really by far the best and fastest option - then hitch hike back to car) be sure to bring money. In 2007 it was 10-12 Euros just for one single car descent. It takes three cables go get from the summit of Punta Rocca down to Malga Ciapela.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.7 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Marmolada Group
Rock Climbing Photo: David Lama on Tempi Moderni (c) B. Lepesant

Tempi Moderni 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Europe : Italy : ... : Punta Rocca
One of the greatest climbs in the Alps. The hardest pitch is the first, but people get lost and tired towards the end, when 5.10+ face climbing with little gear demands stamina. The only not-so-great pitch is the one after the big ledge. It is possible to bivy on this ledge. Bring comfy shoes and don't underestimate the "easy" pitches. From the top, it takes 15 minutes to the cable car, which typically runs until 4 PM....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Marmolada Group Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: North side of Marmolada during a low snow year. Gr...
North side of Marmolada during a low snow year. Gr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Marmolada di Penia - South West end of the mountai...
Marmolada di Penia - South West end of the mountai...

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