REI Community
Penitente - Entrance Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abrazos y Chingazos S 
Alien In My Underpants S 
Apocketlips T 
Art of Suffering T,S 
Boltergeist S 
Bucket Slave T,S 
Camino De La Sonia T,S 
Captain America S 
Cassandra S 
Color Blind S 
Color of Devotion S 
Colors Of Emotion S 
Dive Right In S 
Dos Hombres S 
Drill Seeker S,TR 
Dynosaur S 
Forbidden Fruits S 
French Lesson S 
Glutton for Punishment S 
Hand Jam Crack T 
Hareless T 
Illegal Alien S 
Iron Cross S 
Laura T 
Loony Toons S 
Lovesnake S 
Mark's Crack T 
May-B-Nueve S 
Mission in the Rain S 
Mission in the Snow S 
Morning Glory S 
Mr. Breeze S 
Mr. Wind S 
Mysterious Redhead S 
Nature Of The Beast, The S 
No Regret S 
Persephone S 
Prick Pocket S 
Que Pasa S 
Queso Cabeza S 
Quetzalcoatl Comes Through S 
Rocket Man S 
Sangrador, The T,S 
Serpent, The S 
Sitting in Limbo S 
Stemoroids S 
Tangerine Dream T,S 
That's the Way S 
To Err Is Human T 
Twist of Fate S 
Twist of Feet S 
Wages of Sin T,S 
What The Hey S 
When the Whip Comes Down S 
Whipping Post S 
Yah-Ta-Hei S 
Unsorted Routes:

Mark's Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Hoffman, Lew Hoffman, & Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 2,235
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Katrina TRs Marks Crack.

Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 MORE INFO >>>


This is a super-fun trad climb, with nice holds. It looks like a chimney, but you'll use some cool face holds as well. Get off those crappy slabs, and do this route!


This ascends the wide crack on the Whipping Post Wall.


Big cams, up to #3 Camalot will do you.

Comments on Mark's Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
May 13, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

It is a fun 5.8. There are no anchors so you will need decent length slings to build one from other nearby anchors.
By Steven Reneau
Oct 8, 2012

#4.5 Camalot worked well as a first piece.
By Hiro Kurotsuchi
From: Colorado
Sep 30, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Really fun escape from the ridiculous and sandbagged slabs and thin sport climbs which make up the rest of the canyon! And you won't even be sketched out by the start and the rating isn't sandbagged - how amazing!

I liked it a lot and found that the worst part of it was the anchor options after the climb was done.

For the crack you need #2-3 cams, hexes of those sizes kinda work too, but aren't optimal. I brought up a single rack with an extra #1-3 hex. I used the #2 hex but not the others. Used my 0.75-3. Never found anywhere to put the #4 - leave it behind and double up on the sizes below 4. I used small 0.3-0.4 cams at the top as part of an anchor, but if you opt for the bolts, you won't need those.

The gear anchor options at the top suck badly. I built the worse anchor I've ever built (kinda) after searching around for 10 minutes for better places. You can use the bolts off the to the side, but they aren't over the route and might be in use for climbers on the sport route.
By Hiro Kurotsuchi
From: Colorado
Sep 30, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Not a good trad learning experience, as the crack flares in the back and the gear placements require more work than you would hope. Might be scary on lead if you climb it like a sport climber and not a crack climber (the hands are secure).

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About