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Marjum Canyon

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Marjum Canyon Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,000'
Location: 39.2442, -113.4052 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,854
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Oct 31, 2008  with updates from Ken Noyce
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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: Looking North up Hermit Canyon


This used to be the old highway to get to Nevada and California in the early to mid 20th century. There was even a hermit who lived in the lower reaches of the canyon in a shack that he built into the rock. The shack is still there today. His job was to make sure the road was clear of debris so cars could pass. He often would let passers by stay the night. If you go out there think of how it would be to live there year round.

The road can be nasty as it's basically a riverbed from storms at a few places, your BMW or Prius wouldn't be the best choice of transportation IMO.

This canyon has cooler temps than Ibex and many different climbing options. Most of the traffic going through are people looking for a nice drive, a rancher, or the occasional ATV'er. Crowds aren't a problem here.

The rock is Limestone and tends to be sharp so extra finger tips are advised.

Getting There 

From Delta go south on Hwy 6. You will see the signs pointing the way to Marjum. Follow these. When you get out into the desert keep an eye on the power lines, follow the road that follows the power lines and you shouldn't have much of a problem finding it. The signs are non-existent at a few intersections.

You can also get there from Ibex. Go to the Painter Springs road and cruise that for about 20+ minutes. You will pass the awe inspiring Notch Peak and Sawtooth Canyon granite. You will see the road turn up (east) into a canyon, this is Marjum. The first pullout/side road you come to on the left is the Hermit shack side canyon.

Climbing Season

For the House Range area.

Weather station 40.7 miles from here

28 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Marjum Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Marjum Canyon:
The Boys from Provo   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   Hermit Canyon : Campsite East
Eye of the Needle   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 3 pitches, 200'   Eye of the Needle Wall
Nobody's Darlings   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 215'   Hermit Canyon : Second Tier
The Marjumhorn   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches, 350'   Tower Ridge
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Marjum Canyon

Featured Route For Marjum Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Nobody's Darlings route map.

Nobody's Darlings 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Utah : West Desert : ... : Second Tier
On a wall above the campsite, and above all of the short sport climbs, Reid and I put up a route that we named "Nobody's Darlings." It is an easy 5.10 that goes for two long pitches over 24 bolts. The first pitch is about 115' and starts right off with a slab crux and moves into a hanging flake / layback, it then cruises up some moderate face climbing on perfect crimps. As you move up the bolts start to space out, and the upper crux is a heady bit of crimping that eases up to the first belay. 13...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Marjum Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lots o limestone... come and get it!
Lots o limestone... come and get it!
Rock Climbing Photo: Hermit Shack Wall.
Hermit Shack Wall.

Comments on Marjum Canyon Add Comment
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By Craig Martin
From: Park City
Oct 23, 2009
Neat place with a very remote feeling. The camping here is great but sort of trashed. I doubt if climbers are responsible for all of it, but it really should be taken better care of. We filled a trash bag full of refuse of all sorts including a few beer cans at the base of routes(no PBR's) and a whole Lil Debbie. I recommend other visitors do the same.
By James Garrett
Dec 22, 2009
Nice suggestions Craig,
I have also been used to picking up trash...even old old stuff left far before even climbers were frequenting the area out at in the West Desert for some time...a little effort on everyones part CAN make a huge difference to this very special place. I appreciate that others feel the same about this place, but then again in all the desert areas in general....burning firewood, hey I like campfires more than the next guy, but I always try to either pick up scraps on the way (lumberyards are good sources on the way or bring it from home)...trash really detracts from otherwise beautiful areas. And burning local wood lying on the ground will just eventually turn the entire area into a sand lot.
Nice points and thanks for thinking along those same lines. Our Utah desert is a fragile place really and don't be hesitant to approach the fourwheelers carving their signatures into the hardpan...I mean, some people won't listen, but might become aware that it irritates others. Ya know it always gets paid forward...some recent friends did just that and while dumping it at the local grocery store dumpster in Delta scored big...I think they lived off the findings and goodies they found tossed in there for weeks! They were elated and I couldn't believe some of the cool stuff they found in the Delta Jubilee Dumpster! One person's trash can be anothers grocery the story goes on.
By tenesmus
Dec 23, 2009
Well spoken James.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Mar 25, 2013
The rock here is Cambrian in age, and is mostly Dolostone. The arid desert climate of the west desert is the reason why this sedimentary stone weathers differently from other areas with similar stone. Keep your eyes peeled for trilobites in the shale/clay layers.
By Adam Hammershoi
From: New York
Apr 22, 2017
Anyone know of the status of this place? I will be passing this area over the summer and would like to climb/camp here. But I am unsure about the bolt history or camping regulations here. Thanks

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