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Maria's Variation 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Den Danna 1980s
Page Views: 1,227
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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me climbing Maria's... photo by the great nicole h...


As i was lowering off of Scene of the Crime (5.10a) the other day i noticed a direct line straight out the roof and up to the chains that i hadn't noticed before. I took note that a red or orange TCU would protect the upper crux section. I had no idea if it had been done before but i thought I'd give it a go. Today I climbed the variation and it was super cool with a few fun moves that keep you on your toes. I asked a guy at the crag that seemed like he had been around a while if the line had been done before and he informed me that he did the first ascent of it in the 80's. How weird is that, he just happened to be there. Anyway he gave me the name of the route and his name and told me that it was in the first Rumney guide book (which he wrote) as 5.11a, i told him that i agreed with the grade and that was that.

Sorry if that was a boring story here is the description you were looking for.

Climb through the crux of Scene of the Crime (5.10a) till you get to the roof where that route breaks right. clip a long draw on the fourth bolt and break through the roof on small holds and sinking your fingers in to an unlikely slot in the face (this is where you want to protect). get your feet up on to the face and make one or two delicate moves on tiny holds to latch the top. Mantel and clip.

If you don't care to lead it, it would be a nice top rope variation.


This is a direct finish to Scene of the Crime 5.10a. climb that route to the roof and continue out the roof to the top.


4 bolts and one piece in a slot on the above the roof. i was able to put in an orange and a red TCU in the same spot but one or the other would do fine.

Photos of Maria's Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff investigating Maria's upper parts, hehe...
Jeff investigating Maria's upper parts, hehe...

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By Ladd
May 24, 2008

I've done this one as well, it is kinda nice, flows decent and follows a more direct line to the anchors, although I don't know about the leading potential since I've only TRed it after doing scene of the crime.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 24, 2008

leading it is no big deal as the gear is right where you want it and you can even double up you protection as i did...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 23, 2009

I did this one again today but skipped all the bolts... it made it a little more interesting for sure... i did clip the old rusty pin...
By twellman
From: Cambridge
May 24, 2010

Lee, when did you sneak gear into that finger slot in the middle of the face... after you got your hands above it? It is pretty much the only solid hold on the face, so I guess you have to balance on the little crimps while you plug the gear?

This variation is really fun, and definitely worth trying on TR after you finish the normal route.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jun 10, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I TRed this route yesterday and found it to be really enjoyable with a fun roof and cool delicate face climbing, I will definitely be back to lead this one.
By S. Neoh
Apr 8, 2011

I think I can speak for Den and our friend Maria A that it is fantastic that this variation is enjoying so much renewed attention. BITD, most of us just did it on TR. Great to learn that the next gen is going about it in better form.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Mar 29, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

This route is definitely better than Scene of the Crime. The lead is kind of committing because the gear goes in after you mantle the face (at least that is what I did). but if you're solid at the grade it is not dangerous, but man would that fall hurt if you blew the mantle.

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