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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bill Brunner
Page Views: 3,938
Submitted By: Marc Kajut on Jan 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Mariah (5.9+)

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


Climb up in to a small cave, then pull the roof out of the cave and into a pod. Pulling the roof is the crux of the route. From the pod the crack widens from thin hands to offwidth.


Standard Rack for protection. Two bolt anchor. Rap rings.

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By Adam Kimmerly
Jul 29, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route! Difficult, burly, and awkward. A #5 wild country or BD is nice for the wide crack near the top. Small-med cams protect the crux at the bottom well. This thing is definitely harder than 10a and therefore deserves the infamous 5.9+ rating.
By Jason Scott Heacock
From: Milford, NH
Dec 5, 2011

Before I was clibing more regularly I did this route with a great pair of gloves that made the hand jams easier (maybe thats cheating) now I climb much harder but im sort of stuck here in New England, missing Mission Gorge to death!!
By AlexK
Jan 19, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Probably the most awkward route I've ever climbed.
By Peter V Braun
From: La Jolla, Ca
Oct 5, 2014

This is a very fun route, not awkward at all if you figure out what you're doing. One of my favorite routes at MG!
By Winterparkmg
From: El Cajon, CA
May 8, 2015

What a fun route! We TRed this one awhile back, then led it today. Crux is totally protectable and so it the rest of the route. Small - #1 cams along with a few medium stoppers will do it. You can lug a #3.5 or 4 up to the top if you want to protect the short off width, but good gear right before it. I will climb this one over and over for the next few years since it's wild, airy, and pumpy!
By Adal Bermann
From: San Diego, California
Dec 5, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Are you guys serious? 5.9 - 5.10a??
The same rating as Hangman's climb just a little to the left of it, which is basically a walk in the park...
Perhaps someone can share some beta on this climb that features an almost footless mantle around a roof and up a crack in a dihedral?
By steverett
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 8, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Adal, crack climbs tend to be rated a little lower than face, since they were often put up earlier, and because even if the moves feel harder, it is also harder to fall off (i.e. a 5.9 climber could thrutch their way up this and make it feel like a 10b; less likely they would make it up 10a face climb).

This is one of my favorite climbs at MG. Some beta: don't wear a helmet!

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