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c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Maria Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Turner, 1958
Page Views: 3,157
Submitted By: Mike fenice on May 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (78)
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Opening Moves of Maria Direct

Description 

This is a variation to Maria's first pitch that offers great 5.9 face climbing.

Start well right of Maria just below a short right-facing flake and corner that start 10' off the ground. Make bouldery moves past a tapering horizontal with a pin, into a very small right-facing corner. A few more hard moves will bring you on a welcome stance with good gear. Finish by heading into the Maria corner - there is usually a fixed-sling anchor there.


Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of Maria Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim Schafstall on the start of Maria Direct
Tim Schafstall on the start of Maria Direct

Comments on Maria Direct Add Comment
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By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Apr 21, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

For those under, say, 5'5", the initial boulder problem to the rail is a hard deadpoint. Some may say it's a 5.9 route with a hard 5.10 move.
By Kalil Oldham
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 14, 2010

I found the move to the pin relatively straightforward, if reachy. Above the pin things got a little dicier ... didn't find good gear 'til the ledge. Am I missing something?
By losbill
Nov 15, 2010

No.
By Jaysen Henderson
From: Bronx NY
Jul 5, 2011

I found that after clipping the pin and backing it up, your belayer needs to pay very close attention. If you fall climbing up to the next placement, you're likely to deck if the belayer has too much slack out. Aside from that, the rest of the route is pleasant and Maria was spectacular. Doing the Direct was an easy choice for me because I hate traversing. I'd recommend this route if you can keep it together through the start.
By SethG
Mar 12, 2012

Neither a deadpoint nor a dyno is necessary. (I'm 5' 6.5".) If you're short like me, just look around, you can make a single thin move up off the ground and reach the rail.
By Andy Casler
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 29, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Not ashamed to say that I stick clipped the pin and then backed it up with a .75 once I got up there.

At 5' 8", the crux was right off the deck until about 20 feet up.

The gear is tricky and marginal until the climbing gets to easy.

Williams says this was the first gunks 5.9 though, so I say keep the sandbag!
By Boz Wilkes
From: New Paltz, NY
May 7, 2015

The move to clip (and back up) at the horizontal is fairly simple once you see the plentiful (albeit thin) feet. But I found pushing through the next two moves with no obvious protection pushed the grade a notch and possibility of decking became a real issue. Need a really competent belayer to give just enough slack when needed but ready to suck it up quickly.
By Alissa Doherty
From: Boston, MA
Sep 6, 2016

I found the opening move on this to be hard with a small wingspan, and thought the gear was very difficult to find afterward. If you are like me, you may only bring a few small cams since it looks like the gear is straightforward from the ground (it's not). Luckily, my belayer was a master multitasker and sent up a few pieces to stop my whining about groundfall. There is a bomber brassie placement above the small handslot in the crack and a place for a BD#3 in the alcove above. A bolder climber may opt to run it out, but should know the moves above the crack are non-trivial.