Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
(2) Windfall Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Across the Water T 
Baby Walks T 
Bridge of Sighs T 
Emmaus T 
Feel the Bern S 
Fools Pleasure T 
Genocide T 
Hard Attack T 
Left Gnarly Crack T 
Llama Momma T 
Margo's Madness T 
Midnight Creeper T 
Mr. Reach S 
Mrs. Reach (extension to Mr. Reach) S 
Right Gnarly Crack T 
Sheepgate, The T 
Wave of Mutilation S 
Windfall T 
Zealot T 

Margo's Madness 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 242
Submitted By: Shelton Hatfield on Jun 26, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
at a distance

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb ascends the aesthetic handcrack that splits a pillar up on the left side of Windfall Wall. Start with easy unprotected climbing to get to the base of the crack. Small gear protects the start until you reach the handcrack. Stellar thin hands crack climbing ends too quickly, leading to shit covered ledges and anchors up on the left.

Protection 

Hand/finger sized cams, small wires


Comments on Margo's Madness Add Comment
Show which comments
By Whippin
From: Bend, OR
Jul 12, 2014

Tricky getting in to the crack from the right...thought that was the crux!
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Feb 2, 2015

Shares the anchor (and the starting traverse) with:
Zealot (5.12a)
Midnight Creeper (5.8)
Across the Water (5.9)
Margo's Madness (5.10b)
Fools Pleasure (10a)
By Dave McRae
Apr 10, 2016

Coming in from the left is the easier and most common start. I like to start up Across the Water, place a high cam with a sling on it, then step down and reach out right to the bottom of the good crack in Margo's.
By ForrestKaye
Apr 11, 2016

I came in from the right and thought it was pretty darn tricky and definitely the crux. Left looked like there wasn't any gear.

Was the gear good coming in from the left Dave?