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Marginal Karma 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
Season: Whenever it's dry
Page Views: 1,915
Submitted By: jonah on Feb 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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A fun thin crack just right of Breakfast of Champions. Long pulls on little locks takes you to the top. The spooky part is stepping off the belay ledge and having to yard on the somewhat loose, hollow undercling flake. This thing is sketchy and is going to blow sometime, maybe taking out somebody down below.


Small nuts and cams. You can also TR it from the BOC anchors above.

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By Spanish John
Feb 27, 2006

exposure makes MK seem a little harder, stepping off the belay is kinda scary when doing this one for the first time. It would take a lot for the flake to blow I think, but who knows.
By Douglas T
Aug 7, 2013

The moves on the climb are super fun. The first few moves from the anchor take you from a comfy ledge straight into just-past-vertical undercling and small finger cracks. For mere mortals such as I, rehearsing on TR is easy from the BOC anchors.

I share the concern about the undercling flake, but even more so about a big detached looking block that's at the end of the technical climbing. I certainly recommend climbing it, but probably best to play on it when nobody is below.
By Joe Sambataro
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 27, 2014

It would be more continuous if linked from the second pitch of Rogers Corner, but with the loose flake, I'm guessing that would be a bad idea. Has anyone led it that way?
By derekpearson Pearson
Jun 29, 2014

I have , and I think being at the top of p1 would be safer then being on the ground and I've seen it done that way too.
By Eric Stern
From: Boulder, CO/ Tacoma Washington
Aug 11, 2016

This thing is quite reachy! also I didn't see any loose flake at the beginning. I TR'ed it after climbing BOC and may have missed it, but perhaps it is gone?
By RafaelH
Aug 6, 2017

The climb is the same as it was 20 years ago, don't know what loose flake is being referred to. Great climb when done from the ground. If so, extend all of the draws to the top of Roger's Corner to avoid rope drag and make it easier to pull the rope to clip.

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