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Margin Slide 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 700'
Original:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c PG13 [details]
FA: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Greg Kadlecik, 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 331
Submitted By: Kevin MudRat MacKenzie on Jul 30, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Mosaic of key areas including Greg Kadlecik, Range...

Description 

An interesting way to climb the margin of the East Face of Mt. Marcy. This enlargement of the face offers fourth and easy fifth class climbing on slab, corners and breaks through the upper cliff band of the face via a series of exposed moves to the low-angle slab at the top.

Descend by rappelling or bushwhacking south to the Old Slide (aka Pipeline) on the southern flank of Mt. Marcy.

Location 

Navigate southwest toward the east face of Marcy once at the bottom of the gorge. Cross the drainage from Grand Central Slide (about 15 feet wide). Avoid a large debris field from a 2011 rock-fall on the right side of the face. Hug the bottom of the face on easy terrain until you're about 100 feet away from the southern edge--a slide that forms the margin of the face.

Either start on the same line as Ranger on the Rock and traverse south or begin amongst the rising corners at the bottom of the slide.

Protection 

Standard rack or simply friction climb the slide.


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By spyguy
Oct 3, 2014

does anyone know if you can summit marcy from the "margin slide" route?
By Kevin MudRat MacKenzie
From: Lake Placid, NY
Oct 3, 2014

I’d say it’s a 3 hr bushwhack to summit from Margin Slide top...if you hit it right. I have, however, topped out and cut over to the Old Slide (faces Skylight on south side) from the top of the Margin Slide. If you try that stay on contour to avoid wicked fir wave just below. It’s about a 20 minute whack to the Old Slide. The eastern side of that is steep, but it gets a little less so as you traverse across. The western most track of that leads up to the cliff below Schofield Cobble and the southern ridge of Marcy. Alternately, it is possible to summit Marcy from the top of Grand Central slide (2 hrs hard bushwhack).

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