Marges Upper Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Overview topo of Can Marges de Dalt
If you've made the mistake of arriving at Melafots before 9am and your desired warmup is still besieged by legions of snoozing Euros in bivy sacks (or you've made the mistake of arriving after 10am, and your desired warmup is besieged by legions of Euro topropers), just continue a few leisurely minutes to this unlikely crag, which, despite first glance, hosts some of the best 5.10s at Siurana. The compact gray slab first appears sharp & unappealing, but this wall features some amazing sinker pockets & huecos, and the rock is not as sharp as it looks. While all of the climbs are slabs, abundant features keep the climbing fun & make for good warmups. There are about 10 routes on this cliff, all ranging in grade from 5.9 to 5.11.
The cliff faces slightly more west than the other crags, so it doesn't receive sun quite as early in the morning. There are a few larger trees near the cliff so its possible for the belayer to scam some shade. At the right end of this cliff there is a signed boundary indicated a bird closure. Please do not climb to the right of this boundary.
The approach is a bit on the long side (5 minutes), but it follows a popular tourist trail, and its on the way to Campi, if you're going that way. From the southeast corner of the parking lot, follow the excellent flat trail near the edge of the cliff, heading east, below the yellow cliffs of Melafots, L'Isabel, Can Burdel & La Trona. Just after the trail passes directly below a jutting horizontal roof with some old aid bolts, the trail begins to descend along steep switchbacks. Can Marges Upper is the gray pocketed just East of the switchbacks, sitting a bit below the rest of the cliffline.
Weather station 14.0 miles from here
11 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Marges Upper
Ultima del 85 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Europe
: ... : Marges Upper
This outstanding moderate climbs a nice, sculpted gray slab on beautiful sinker pockets. Despite the slabby angle, this is a great beginner outing or a perfect warmup. There are a few long moves here and there, but intermediate edges allow passage for the height-impaired.A few easy moves gain a horizontal break below a bulge. Make sequential moves between great pockets to the crux above the fourth bolt: a long reach to a not-so-great 2-finger pocket. More juggy pockets above lead to a left-f...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Marges Upper from the trail. The rope is on "...
Marges Upper is the triangular gray slab at center...
Savoring the stellar "Ultima del 85" at ...