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Marges Lower

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Marges Lower Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 2,250'
Location: 41.2605, 0.9434 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 617
Administrators: Jason Halladay, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
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Description 

Like its big brother up above, Can Marges Lower is an excellent warmup crag, offering a nice concentration of excellent moderates on a compact cliff. These routes will likely be vacant when Melafots is over-run, probably due to the epic 6 minute approach. The routes here are perhaps even better than those at Marges Upper, with mostly huge jugs on a substantially steeper wall. Some of the most enjoyable large pockets at Siurana can be found on classics like "Pixapins". There are approximately 15 routes at this small cliff, none steeper than vertical, and all in the 5.9 to 5.11 range. The tallest routes here are around 70 feet in height.

This cliff faces nearly East, and with a good assortment of tall trees at the base, this is one of the shady-est of the Village crags, making it a great choice on hotter days.

Getting There 

The approach is a bit on the long side (5 minutes), but it follows a popular tourist trail, and its on the way to Campi, if you're going that way. From the southeast corner of the parking lot, follow the excellent flat trail near the edge of the cliff, heading east, below the yellow cliffs of Melafots, L'Isabel, Can Burdel & La Trona. Just after the trail passes directly below a jutting horizontal roof with some old aid bolts, the trail begins to descend along steep switchbacks. Can Marges Upper is the gray pocketed just East of the switchbacks, sitting a bit below the rest of the cliffline. COntinue down the switchbacks another 30 seconds or so, to a climber's trail that breaks off right. Follow the right fork to the West to arrive at the crag in about 15 seconds.

Climbing Season

For the Siurana area.

Weather station 14.0 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Marges Lower
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning up the steep, juggy wall.

Pixapins 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Europe : Spain : ... : Marges Lower
This classic, popular moderate offers stellar jugs on a steep wall almost the entire way, culminating in a balancey crux just below the anchor. Trad skills will come in handy for the flake encounter midway up.Follow the brief slab to a steep, corral-textured wall. Make big reaches between perfect jug pockets to a good flat edge in white stone. Traverse left via a flake on the prow to a short, left-facing groove and a good kneebar. Lieback the groove to a stance in an alcove, then bear hug th...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Marges Lower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of routes at Can Marges de Baix
BETA PHOTO: Overview of routes at Can Marges de Baix
Rock Climbing Photo: Marges Lower is the shaded gray slab a bit left of...
Marges Lower is the shaded gray slab a bit left of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Marges Lower from the trail.
Marges Lower from the trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the classic jugs of "Pixapins" ...
Enjoying the classic jugs of "Pixapins" ...

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