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5.1 The Shelves
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anna’s Transformation TR 
Consuelo from the South TR 
Faust TR 
Hans the Nordic Boy TR 
Margarete TR 
Megan’s Disappearance TR 
Mephistopheles TR 
Rachel’s Obsession TR 
Raskolnikov's Duality TR 
Tonio Kröger's duality TR 

Margarete 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 30
Submitted By: kenr on May 10, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: The Shelves E. Faust F. Mephistopheles G. Marga...

Description 

Interesting moves up short faces and corners, separated by ledges.

Basically .. climb three feet right from the dihedral / V-chimney route the whole way up. Start to the right of the dihedral / V-chimney. Next aim up to just left of the obvious tree (easier if deviate right along the way), and up the inside corner which forms the R side of the overhanging bulge. Next up a ways to just R of below the cap stone. Some delicate moves rising left 4-5 feet, then up to the top just L of the cap stone.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location 

Three feet right of the obvious (low-right-side) narrow dihedral / V-chimney, and left of obvious tree about six feet up from the ground.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection 

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Shelves sector.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


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