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Great Expectations Area (FTGU Left Side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Love T,S 
Crystal Ether T 
Derezzed T 
Exacerbation S,TR 
Great Expectations T 
Marc's Mixup T,S 
Men Giving Birth T 
Midget Love S 
Murder in the Dark S 
Pin Setter T 
Raoul Silva S 
Rapidfire T 
Skyfall S 
Tattle Tales S 
Twilight Sparkle T 
Vertebrae S 
Where in The World Is Carmen Pellegrino? S 
Wisecrack T 

Marc's Mixup 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Marc-Andre leclerc
Page Views: 75
Submitted By: Marco on Sep 3, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: 1. Marc's Mixup

Description 

Start by climbing through the small roof and mantle the bloc. This section is a V4ish problem, also height dependant. Place some gear in the crack before heading up to the bolt. The crux is the left to right traverse across the face to the next crack. You will need to place pro in this crack due to the next bolt having been removed. Continue heading right on good edges to the arete and finish up with Exacerbation.

There are a few open projects on this wall-

Project 1: Start as for Marc's Mixup but reach up to a high pocket with the left to pull yourself up onto the bloc. Clip the bolt to the right before heading up and right through the crux to gain the crack. Finish up with the Exacerbation arete. You may want to stick clip the first bolt. Blowing out of the pocket when pulling up will lead to a serious fall.

Project 2: Start as for Marc's Mixup and finish up and left using the twin cracks. Thin and technical.

Project 3: Start in the cave on the two obvious pockets.Work your way onto the bloc and link any of the routes. A V10ish or harder start.

Project 4: Start as for Marc's Mixup but skip the bloc and go directly over the roof to a small edge, match, and go for the sloping inset. Finish as for project 1.

Location 

See topo

Protection 

One bolt in the middle of face and two on Exacerbation. 2-3 smallish cams for the cracks.


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By MikeW
Jun 1, 2011

I'm still laying claim to the left most project in this picture if it hasn't been done. I rescrubbed it last year and this year but it's been weaping ever since last fall.

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