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Maple Canyon Road

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Maple Canyon Road Rock Climbing 


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Location: 39.5552, -111.6832 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 140,029
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 5, 2009
Forecast:
Today

48° | 32°
Sunday

41° | 29°
Monday

49° | 31°
Tuesday

54° | 32°
Wednesday

61° | 35°
Thursday

64° | 37°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Description 

The routes in this area are those in Maple Canyon that are accessed directly from Maple Canyon Road, without first traveling on the foot trails of Left Fork, Middle Fork, or Right Fork.

Getting There 

Maple Canyon Road is the vehicle road through the canyon. From the mouth of the canyon in the east the road travels east-west until an almost-ninety-degree turn to the right just after the day use parking.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.5 miles from here

299 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',100],['2 Stars',140],['1 Star',43],['Bomb',3]
['<=5.6',35],['5.7',23],['5.8',27],['5.9',21],['5.10',54],['5.11',56],['5.12',50],['5.13',31],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Maple Canyon Road

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Maple Canyon Road:
Changing the Stripes   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   Heart Rock Area : Changing the Stripes Buttre...
Tachycardia   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   Heart Rock Area : Heart Rock
Peterbilt   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Road Kill Wall
Hot 4 Teacher   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 45'   Schoolroom Area
Redemption of Madonna   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Schoolroom Area
The Grecian Highway   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 3 pitches, 285'   Thessalonian Buttress
Flak Jacket   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Bridge Area
The Horny Thing   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   Schoolroom Area
Big Kahuna   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 30'   Schoolroom Area
King Cobble   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   The Early Bird Crag
Crime Scene   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Bridge Area
Half Hearted   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Windshield Wiper Wall
Taking the Bullet   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 90'   Bridge Area
Devil's Plaything   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Box Canyon : Ammo Dump Wall
Downloader   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Box Canyon : Ammo Dump Wall
The Hitchhiker   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 125'   Windshield Wiper Wall
Pasties and a G-String   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Box Canyon : The Impact Zone Wall
Watermelon Sugar   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Box Canyon : Ammo Dump Wall
Beaten into Submission aka King Line   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Windshield Wiper Wall
Cobble in the Sky   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Box Canyon : The Arch
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Maple Canyon Road

Featured Route For Maple Canyon Road
Rock Climbing Photo: Stan on the Classic Watermelon Sugar

Watermelon Sugar 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Utah : Maple Canyon : ... : Ammo Dump Wall
Clip two easy bolts and then climb pinches, sidepulls, and pockets to a series of chalked holds below the 5th bolt. Throw up and right to a horn right below the 5th bolt and then continue on decent stuff to the 6th bolt. The draw hangs down below onto this horn which is a bit annoying. There is also a crimp you can hit left of the horn. If you move right after the next bolt and clip the chains of Downloader it is 5.11c. You probably want a long draw on the 6th bolt if you move right. And i...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Maple Canyon Road Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Inside Box Canyon
Inside Box Canyon

Comments on Maple Canyon Road Add Comment
Show which comments
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Jun 8, 2015
Maple Canyon Alert! The land at the mouth of Maple Canyon as well as along the road before the Forest Service sign is private property. The landowners have asked that if you want to park or stay the night on their property that you give a donation of $8/night and $3/day. There are donation boxes. You can also call to reserve a spot on the private property at [removed]. Please respect this private property and use the restrooms in the upper canyon for now. Note that car camping in day use parking spots is NOT allowed in the upper canyon on the Forest Service property.
By E Johnson
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2016
The above phone number is wrong! Don't text or call and bug this person. Can SLCC please post the correct number for the private land camping? Thanks.

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