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Maple Canyon accident
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Jul 23, 2016
fox13now.com/2016/07/23/utah-w...

RIP
LccClimber
Joined Jun 13, 2016
0 points
Jul 23, 2016
I,the close friend, and Melissa's husband are currently trying to deal with this-
As stated in the news reports, it was an accident that took a loved ones life -Melissa did not suffer and for that we are thankful
jackii
Joined Jul 17, 2006
11 points
Jul 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: avatar
So sorry to hear. Condolences. zoso
Joined Jun 3, 2007
642 points
Jul 25, 2016
Very, very sad. Condolences to Melissa's family and friends. RIP, Melissa. Brenda Leach
Joined Sep 11, 2004
73 points
Jul 25, 2016
Very sorry to hear. Any details as to what went wrong? Sounds like a rappelling or lowering accident. JeffL
From Salt Lake City
Joined Jun 14, 2012
85 points
Jul 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Red Rock, Cannibal crag
Best wishes in a difficult time jackii OldManRiver
From Cottonwood Heights, UT
Joined Jul 18, 2012
81 points
Jul 26, 2016
Condolences Jackii. RIP Melissa. sfotex
From Sandy, UT
Joined Jul 14, 2007
237 points
Jul 26, 2016
Thanks to all in the climbing community for your support in this difficult time jackii
Joined Jul 17, 2006
11 points
Aug 2, 2016
When you are cleaning anchors check, double check, triple check, even quadruple check your knot after you tie back into the rope and perhaps ask your belayer to remind you to do so!. jackii
Joined Jul 17, 2006
11 points
Aug 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Cathedral Peak!
Very sorry for your loss.

Hopefully local equippers will take this to heart and use mussy hooks on new installs and upgrades in the area. Adds a level of safety which can prevent such tragedies..

Simon W
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined May 18, 2013
98 points
Administrator
Aug 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Enter the Colossus
A wonderful family who had done much for the climbing community back East... our condolences are with the Raueis... Melissa's husband started The Rock Club in NY. Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,902 points
Aug 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: REtro
Simon W wrote:
Very sorry for your loss. Hopefully local equippers will take this to heart and use mussy hooks on new installs and upgrades in the area. Adds a level of safety which can prevent such tragedies..

Actually there are quite a few musSy anchors in Maple. Obviously not on this one tho. BE CAREFUL out there! RiP
R. Moran
From Moab , UT
Joined Mar 18, 2009
144 points
Aug 2, 2016
Unfortunately, most fixed anchors anywhere are not equipped with drop ins, which means someone almost always has to untie, thread and retie if lowering is the appropriate option -the almost always recognizes situations when the leader would run the rope through the anchors but have the top rope weight bearing on draws (so anchor cleaner does not have to untie at all, simply pick up leaders draws), when there are rap rings at the top and you can thread a bite through the rings, tie figure eight on a bite and clip this into harness with (hopefully) two opposed locking biners before untying the original knot-and recognizing there is always the lower versus rappel conundrum

Bottom line, be careful out there
jackii
Joined Jul 17, 2006
11 points
Administrator
Aug 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: There's more than one use for an Ice Hammer. Lake ...
A horrible thing to witness - my deepest sympathies. Chris Owen
From Big Bear Lake
Joined Jan 1, 2002
10,773 points
Aug 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Sherpapa
Very sorry for the loss... Does anyone have a report on what actually happened? Chris Walden
From Soldotna, Alaska
Joined Aug 21, 2014
447 points
Aug 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Potrero Mexico, Sport Climbing Mecca.
RIP. Can't imagine bearing witness. Craig Childre
From Lubbock, Texas
Joined Aug 28, 2006
5,100 points
Aug 2, 2016
For all concerned details will be shared publicly if and when appropriate jackii
Joined Jul 17, 2006
11 points
Aug 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Yes
Its definitely important for community learning grog m aka Greg McKee
Joined Aug 29, 2012
115 points
Aug 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: My Hero
Are there any more details on what exactly happened? BobGray
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Jun 7, 2006
693 points
Administrator
Aug 3, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Enter the Colossus
jackii wrote:
When you are cleaning anchors check, double check, triple check, even quadruple check your knot after you tie back into the rope and perhaps ask your belayer to remind you to do so!.
Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,902 points
Aug 13, 2016
First -before giving details of this tragic accident, understand this is not to open controversy of whether to rap or lower, etc -this particular scenario indicated using standard practices associated with threading chains where equipped chains only allow for threading after untying and then retying knot afterwards

These are facts:
Climber had 15 +years of experience in climbing and cleanings anchors
Area was very noisy with large family reunion
Climber apparently got distracted
Fall was approximately 33 feet
Climber was wearing hard shell helmet
Area of impact was rocky
Climber assumed died instantly on impact -not breathing -no vital signs -cpr attempted until er services arrived and official death announcement made approximately 30 minutes after accident
Death due to massive head and full body internal trauma
There was no evidence of any knot in tie in end of rope

Analysis of what most probably happened (although I will never know for sure but most probable scenario)
Climber distracted in retying in and looped rope through tie in points not having realized there was no figure eight or follow through and proceeded to tie a single fisherman back up (which this climber always did as last step in tie in process) -this knot would have held temporarily enough to be taken by belayer, undo personal anchor systems, and be lowered approximately seven feet before the improper knot slowly untied and climber went into free fall, impacting between belayer (me) and spouse
Whether climber self checked and all looked good we will never know

Bottom line, distraction led to a fatal mistake
Climbing outside is dangerous and you can never be off your guard
Be diligent when cleaning anchors, do it the same way every time and go through a personal check list double, quadruple.....times and make sure you have done everything correctly Especially with retying your knot

This follow up post will hopefully be a wake up call emphasizing diligence and safety every time you climber, whether outside or in the gym
jackii
Joined Jul 17, 2006
11 points
Aug 13, 2016
A wake up call, for sure. Thank you for sharing the details, jackii. George Wu
From Newport Beach, CA
Joined Jul 11, 2015
75 points
Aug 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Thanks, jackii. Tough stuff for sure.

Did she ever use a bowline to tie in?

Take care...quadruple check!

Good to chat the other day. Best wishes.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
13,072 points
Aug 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenste...
Really sorry for your loss

A very experienced long time climber in the Adirondacks was injuried a few years ago. The crag was very crowded. A mix up in whether or not the rope made it to the ground occurred. The climber rapped off the end of one end of his rope. The only positive thing was there were plenty of volunteers to help caterpillar the litter out.

It can happen to the best of us especially when commutation breaks down.
Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Joined Jul 21, 2012
449 points
Aug 13, 2016
She never tied in with a bowline -always a figure eight follow through jackii
Joined Jul 17, 2006
11 points
Aug 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Cathedral Peak!
Brian in SLC wrote:
Did she ever use a bowline to tie in?


This doesn't strike me as an appropriate place to start that debate...

RIP Melissa.
Simon W
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined May 18, 2013
98 points


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