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Mantel Variation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,325
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on May 24, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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BETA PHOTO: The Mantel

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Climb the ledged face, past the three bolts. If you can climb this climb, then you can mantel. Very enjoyable, just short.


Slings are around the tree at the top, but bring your own just in case. 3 draws for the climb.

Photos of Mantel Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mantle Variation
BETA PHOTO: Mantle Variation

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By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 23, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great var. start to schoolroom west. It adds some spice. Very good mantels.
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Jul 19, 2006

Route in the photo does look like the Mantle Variation. Someone added several bolts to this route. Was an established line without the bolts. Seem to recall that a bunch of folks (me included in '85) had led it sans bolts. Sorta surprised it hasn't been chopped, but, have to admit last time I led it, I clipped them darn things...ha ha.

I think there was also a variation that used a piton way out to the right as well (long gone by now). But, I seem to recall most folks used the line protected by the bolts. Described in several guidebooks prior to the bolts being added.

-Brian in SLC
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Jul 20, 2006

The mantle variation was in Desperate Grace in 1975, Wasatch Granite in 1977 and Wasatch Rock Climbs in 1984. As well as the latest Ruckman guide. Was perhaps more clearly stated as following the water streak in those earlier guides. As also mentioned that folks more commonly top roped it, but, after talking with a couple of the old guard (guidebook authors), I'm sure it was led way back in the day. No question in my, or the guidebook authors' minds that the bolts are ON the mantle variation. There just isn't any other mantle-esque terrain around there, and, its a natural line. Commonly done as a alternate start to schoolroom, or, a TR.
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
May 23, 2007

The picture I posted under my profile is of one of the guidebook authors...on the route.

And, DT concurred as well (we sat at the base of the route and discussed all the bolts).

I believe every bolt below where the standard Schoolroom route traverses across is on what is/was known as the mantle variation. The bolt line follows the natural weaknesses. Same route I lead ground up on site in the mid 80's (and was commonly done prior).

I'm not saying that the bolts should be yanked. I clipped the darn things last time I led it, for sure. I guess my days of soloing that type of terrain are gone...

Its a fun variation and a neat way to start schoolroom.
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Jun 12, 2007

No way, that guy's a hack.

Pretty sure Pete C, BS, etc etc had lead it prior to '85. I recall many folks that knew it'd been led sans bolts prior to '85.

I'll bet a whole slug of folks led it back in the day. 70's at least. Given the Lowe clan floatin' around, etc, wouldn't be surprised if it was done in the 60's.
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 15, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you have a hard time getting Dennis Turville's number, I could probably get it..
By Crimpanzee Shortt
From: San Francisco, California
Jul 8, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Mantle is 5.9 eh? Maybe in 50 degree weather, in the 80's.

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