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Mantel Illness 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,897
Submitted By: Max Schon on Mar 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (86)
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Composite watercolor of Mantel Illness with the up...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


I don't know how many times I've been to the Scarface Wall and not gone to the right side. Mantel Illness is a ways down on the right side (couple hundred yards). There is a very short crack to the left of Mantel Illness.

This is a fun climb, with a crux unlike most in the Creek. It's easy 5.10- climbing up to the crux. The crux is a great bouldery mantel/highstep move. It's well protected by a green alien or, if you're scared, a #0 TCU less then a foot higher. After the mantel, the climb is pretty much over. Easily done with a 60 meter rope.


A few hand pieces for the start, and then a smattering of gear down to a green alien.

Photos of Mantel Illness Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: inching up towards the crux
inching up towards the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Andre on his send of Mantel Illness.
Andre on his send of Mantel Illness.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hannah going for the crimper
Hannah going for the crimper
Rock Climbing Photo: Damien leading Mantel Illness for his first time, ...
Damien leading Mantel Illness for his first time, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: mantel illness
mantel illness
Rock Climbing Photo: mantel illness
mantel illness
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Merriam leading Mantle Illness with style
Josh Merriam leading Mantle Illness with style
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux of Mantel Illness, Photo: Aaron Shupp
The crux of Mantel Illness, Photo: Aaron Shupp
Rock Climbing Photo: sweet
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the mantle crux on Mantle Illness
Approaching the mantle crux on Mantle Illness
Rock Climbing Photo: Buster making it look easy.
Buster making it look easy.

Comments on Mantel Illness Add Comment
Show which comments
By Grant Bryans
From: buena vista colorado
Apr 21, 2006
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

I think Bloom calls this climb an 11-, the high step crux is tricky, at least for me, but this is a gem, haven't led it just TR but soon.....
By todd bogan
Mar 2, 2007

Seems like the crux mantle was more than 10+
blue TCU is below your feet, move's balancey, Sinestra-esque
and the piece you get before the chains is in friable rock.
All this keeps the brain busy on lead.
BTW, if ya got bigger hands, the hand crack is no giveaway, with
a couple bodylengths of splitter offset green camalots.
super fun route
By Adam Peters
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Dec 26, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is atypical indian creek route, but one of my fav-o-rites!
By Ty Gittins
From: bozeman
Mar 31, 2011

i found the face climbing crux to be relatively are not forced to mantle if you hit the crimps right. getting to the first jug was harder for me.
By Mareko
From: San Francisco
May 24, 2011

Climbed this last week. Amazing, has a bit of everything, from crimps to great hand jams. A must do when your at the creek. Its to the right of Wavy Gravy
By Rosco Ross
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 1, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I have to agree that this is a gem. Well worth doing if you are over this far on Scarface. I was able to get a solid 0.3Camalot just below the mantel, which made me feel better for the crimps up above.
By slim
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

i thought the off fingers splitter beneath the mantel section was the crux. pretty balancy/ barn door sort of thing. the face climbing goes pretty well if you hit the holds right.
By Backwards Eric
Dec 15, 2015

This thing kicked my butt. In the process of that happening, I tried cheating over to the left crack, but it is a big off width. Has anyone ever done that route? It doesn't appear on mountainproject yet.

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