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Man's Quest for Flight 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: P1: Jim Munson, Morris Hershoff, Hardie Truesdale, 1983. P2: John Stannard, John Bragg, 1973.
Page Views: 1,132
Submitted By: Nicola Masciandaro on Aug 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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P1, 5.9: Start at the base of the Andrew corner. Climb up of the left wall of the Andrew corner, then head left around the arete and up to the GT ledge.

P2, 5.11-: Go up the face right of the Silhouette corner to a roof. Move left over a small ceiling by a thin crack to the base of the final corner capped by the large roof. Get a piece in the corner and move up into it (crux), then exit out left and up to tree belay.


Arrow Wall


standard rack, tcu's

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By Colin Porter
From: Norwalk, CT
Jul 4, 2015

(p1) Did Protor Silex for pitch one

(p2) Start the pitch on top of the large block. Climb 5.7 moves up and right under small roofs. After about 30-40 feet, go straight up under the large roof on the left side. The crux is getting into and past a small seam on the left side of the large roof (a #2 C4 at your feet and a .75 C4 in a pocket/hand hold can be used to protect the crux). It's 2 moves of 10b to get into the seam, then a side pull/undercling fingertip crux at 10d/11a. After the crux, you get a bomber .4 C4. Then exit the roof out left, and belay at the tree.

It's a very short crux, just 1 move at 11a, and an excellent first 11a lead in the Gunks.
Jul 6, 2015

We've climbed P1 of this on its own -- pretty worthwhile!
By SethG
Jul 7, 2015

How long ago did you do pitch one, Julie? I've looked at it a few times and each time I've walked away because it looked pretty dirty from the ground. Also which start did you do? The guidebook has it two different ways IIRC.
Jul 7, 2015

Hm. Years, likely 5 of them. We started as for Andrew, on top of the scrambling ledge. I remember an interesting move or two up a R-facing corner (and something about bees), moving up it and then left to get out onto the Silhouette face. Nice climbing up that face, some genuine crack motion, steeper than you'd expect. A bit dirty then, but not terrible. Give it a whirl!
By SethG
Jul 12, 2015

OK so I was curious and I did pitch one of Man's Quest on Saturday. I ended up doing the 5.6 start because I found gear that way. The 5.8 start diagonals up to the arete a little quicker but the holds are sandy/slippery and I didn't want to smack right back down onto the ledge, so I just made the extra move up before traversing left to the main face.

Once you get around onto the main face there are some nice 5.7/5.8 moves and it's a little bit dirty. The gear is pretty good. If it got more traffic and cleaned up a bit it would be a fine pitch.

On the main face Silhouette is always just a few feet to your left and it takes some commitment to stay off of Silhouette all the way to the GT Ledge, since Silhouette is a beautiful climb and it is clean. Julie, I'd say if you did some "genuine crack motion" then you succumbed to the temptation and moved onto Silhouette, since there is no vertical crack on Man's Quest.
Jul 13, 2015

I succumb to that temptation whenever I can!

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