REI Community
Front Corridor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Churning in the Dirt S 
Fury S 
Gun Control S 
Hair Today Gone Tomorrow S 
Helltown S 
High Noon S 
Man's Best Friend S 
Megatonic S 
Monster Skank S 
Pockets of Dirt S 
Siktion T 
Sound of Power S 
Sunsplash S 
To Bolt or Toupee S 
Unknown S 
Unknown 5.10 S 
Unknown Trad T 
Unknown/Unnamed S 

Man's Best Friend 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mark Limage, Ninfa Chauchois (2005)
Page Views: 21,802
Submitted By: 72HW Holly on Nov 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (240)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BJ on the hang belay after pitch 1

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


A closely bolted, enjoyable climb that heads straight up slabby white rock on pitch one, then into rippling red on the second. The view is great all the way up and the rock itself is a pleasure to climb on. An excellent introduction to multi-pitch climbing for those so inclined.


Located about 150 yards from the parking area, the first pitch is hidden by the fin of rock that forms the east wall of Front Corridor. Use hidden rappel anchors to drop down into the corridor and get to the base of the climb.


First pitch is 90 feet and has 8 bolts, second pitch is also 90 feet with 10 bolts. Decent belay ledge halfway up with a secure hanging belay at the top.

Photos of Man's Best Friend Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Man's Best Friend
BETA PHOTO: Man's Best Friend
Rock Climbing Photo: Todd Smith rappelling pitch 2
Todd Smith rappelling pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: High on Man's Best Friend
High on Man's Best Friend
Rock Climbing Photo: YIP
Rock Climbing Photo: The two pitches can be linked if you are so inclin...
The two pitches can be linked if you are so inclin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing Man's Best Friend
Climbing Man's Best Friend
Rock Climbing Photo: Joining the group at the belay!
Joining the group at the belay!
Rock Climbing Photo: First climb in Red Rock, can't wait to come back!
First climb in Red Rock, can't wait to come back!
Rock Climbing Photo: First time on sandstone! I think I'm addicted!
First time on sandstone! I think I'm addicted!
Rock Climbing Photo: Watch your rope at the first belay, tons of stuff ...
BETA PHOTO: Watch your rope at the first belay, tons of stuff ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The First Pitch
The First Pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: This route is easy to find if you know where to lo...
BETA PHOTO: This route is easy to find if you know where to lo...
Rock Climbing Photo: When rappeling, there is some motivation to stop a...
When rappeling, there is some motivation to stop a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of a few unknown climbers about half way ...
Overview of a few unknown climbers about half way ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Patrick Clark seconding the 1st pitch
Patrick Clark seconding the 1st pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Kelly several bolts up on the first pitch.
Kelly several bolts up on the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the bolted belay station halfway up.
Approaching the bolted belay station halfway up.

Comments on Man's Best Friend Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 29, 2016
By soulagent
From: Las Vegas
May 30, 2008

One of the bolts on the rap station to get to the route has been pulled out. Its an easy scramble in and out! Great route for a first lead since it's well bolted! Great route in general!
Thanks Mark!
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Sep 30, 2008

There is a bolted route left of Man's Best Friend. Any info on this?
By Paul-Anderson
From: Calgary
Mar 28, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A potentially easier approach which avoids the rappel is to head a bit more right immediately out of the parking lot compared to the photo. There is a huge boulder and if you turn left right after this, you enter a small gully. At the end of gully (probably the third you pass after you exit the parking lot), it is a very easy downclimb and then a short walk to get to the start of the route.
By Kurt Burt
Oct 10, 2009

Been a guide here for years never knew about the route. Just got off the route with my son Adam who is 7. His first multi pitch route, just me and my boy just a perfect evening in the red rocks. Why you you rappel the approach? Just walk in with a 10 foot 3rd class move doen the gully from the route.
By Shawn Neal
Nov 27, 2009

There are 3 routes left of MBF,all of which start on a ramp about 40'
left and 15 up. The 1st is Mollie's Malecone, a trad route up a shallow crack that protects well with aliens and med. camalots, save a small piece for the horizonal 3/4s up. A bolt protects the white slab below the crack. 5:8+ 90' to chains.

The next route left is Riley's Revenge, sport 8 bolts, 5:9 100'to the chains.

Next route left is Paislie Pockets, up the slab to a right facing corner up to the horizonal, traverse right to a left facing corner at the top move right and up to the chains. 5:7+ pg 2 ropes or 1 70 meter for rappel.

Corey Cogley and I put up all of the routes on the face 2-04. We call the the area The Pet Wall. Mark bolted MBF on lead after Cory and I had done it without bolts, not realizing till he reached the chains, a small detail Mark and I laugh about.
By Ed Lysne
Dec 2, 2009

Fun route. Approach: Easy quick rap from straight across the gully.
Route: I led it in 1 pitch (60m) and skipped a few bolts. Rap in 2
By nick johns
Feb 8, 2010

HAHA DOR! I remember the day i came up with mud all over my subie!!! Great sandstone routes in my old home town.....To think it was 5 years ago when we first worked these routes!!!!Winston Wall I think was the name!
By liveit P
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Apr 30, 2010

Great, and super fun multi pitch sport route. Super protected (1.5-2 moves for each bolt in some areas) seemed a lot easier than 5.7 especially when compared to some other trad routes.
By Superpolok
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 8, 2011

Wonderful sport climb and VERY well protected which you'll never hear me complaining about. A couple of the bolts on the first pitch are spinners right now.
By Alex Rogers
From: Sydney, Australia
Oct 4, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Excellent climb, good intro to new leader / new to multipitch.
By Garrett Wilson
From: Henderson nevada
Jan 15, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I really enjoyed this climb, my first multi-pitch. Perfect to start out, it seems like its a first for alot of climbers so I rated it great just for the fact that it's a popular beginners choice. Real close to the parking and an easy scramble in. The route is real fun, easy climbing and good bolt placement. However when I did this, one of the bolts at the belay point below P2 was loose and pulled out a bit so it was interesting, and also there were a few spinners as well. Im sure it's been done alot since I did it so hopefully these issues have been fixed. Overall its a good climb for anyone, gets good sun, and be prepared to be in lots of tourists photos, anyone on this climb attracts alot of attention from all the people in the parking lot. Enjoy!
By DavidF
From: Fishers, IN
Feb 10, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route for introducing new climbers to the joys of multi-pitch climbing. Have used this climb many times in the past for instruction. No need to repel the approach. Stay to right by 30' and climb down into gully. Well if not over protected, but that does make it a perfect route for new leaders.
By kboofis
Mar 18, 2013

My girlfriend and I went to climb this and was waiting for a party of three to rappel off when we wet to clip into the hangers to begin the rappel approach. We noticed the two bolts were spinning and I pulled out one of them with just my hand, left it on the ground, and the other one would have came out it as easily. The party said they had approached the climb from those rappel anchors and one of them was clearly more experienced than the other two. After reading these other comments about spinning hangers on the climb and not sure whether they had been replaced or not we decided against climbing it because of how sketched out we were. I recommend anyone want to climb this route to REALLY be careful and hopefully this route will have upgraded protection soon.

Just a reminder to just not trust protection out there. It hadn't rained or snowed recently and was just from old gear.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 19, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

1) don't take bolts out, even by hand (unless you can leave a safe option). Even in shear, they are plenty strong for a rappel. Just let someone know it's bad. Leaving them out will endanger others.

2) there is an extremely casual 3rd class approach about 50 yards south of the rappel to this climb. Climbers looking to do this route should use this option until someone has time to go replace that bolt. (and, truth be told, it might be a good thing that anchor has gone the way of the dodo, as its completely unnecessary)
By Frank L.
Apr 7, 2014

At least two spinning bolts on P1 as of 4/5/14.
By BJ Cook
From: San Diego, California
Sep 15, 2014

Still a couple spinning bolts on P1 as of 09/09/14
By Jake Douglas
Oct 12, 2014

Hanging a left into the gully after the large boulder is solid. Can't miss it.

Couple spinners but the anchors seemed solid. Nice safe route for learning multi-pitch climbing.

However, someone else was climbing the route immediately to climbers left and complained of loose rock. When they got to the anchor for that route they slapped the rock and it was very hollow sounding. I would avoid it.
By Kevin Downie
Mar 2, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very much enjoyed climbing this route. Several of the bolts are still loose; the first bolt off the deck can almost be removed by hand. Left all bolts in place but they need to be replaced.
By Steve123
May 4, 2015

Climbed this route in early May 2015. A couple of the hangers could rotate, but the bolts all seemed solid.
By BigB
From: Red Rock, NV
May 22, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

2nd bolt on first pitch was loose enough that I could turn it easily with fingers.
By Millo FLores
Jul 22, 2015

Be careful. I was there July-21-15 and noticed the second bolt on this route was loose, if you twist it it unscrews. Needs to be replaced. If someone bolts or know someone who does it, it would be greatly appreciated.
By KayJ
Dec 3, 2015

Easy fun climb to get on when you want a quick day in the park. linked both pitches with a 70 meter rope. the bolts are so close together, it's easy to skip a few bolts or back clean if you don't have enough draws to link. easy to rap in and then scramble out the same way. still some spinners on the route, but very well protected.
By Rob Rice
From: Kansas City, Kansas
Mar 29, 2016

Found a red ATC-guide at the bottom of a gully on our way to Man's Best Friend. If yours, call me at 321-229-1705!
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
May 2, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The hike around the boulder to the 10-foot downclimb is dead easy and takes all of two minutes: no need for the rappel approach. It's so close to the road that I was able to lock our rental car from halfway up the approach. The route is on good rock and very tightly bolted. About as user-friendly as a route can get. Felt much easier than 5.7 and would make a wonderful first multi-pitch lead. Two straightforward single-rope rappels gets you down. We did this on a rest day after Rainbow Buttress...still had to stop twice on the way back to the car to catch our breath(LOL).
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Dec 29, 2016

LOST (12/29/2016): Sling and Nut Tool. I forgot a sling (which I could care less about) and a nut tool (which has a lot of value for me). Either at Fender Bender or Man's Best Friend. I will reward you very well if you return them to me. Thanks!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About