REI Community
Cactus Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Affluenza S 
Afterburner S 
Agave S 
Alexi's Climb S 
Alignment, The S 
Almost French S 
Almost Gothic S 
Amiga S 
Are You Experiential? S 
Awesome Offwidthin' T,TR 
Axis of Evil S 
Banana Split S 
Barbed Wire Love S 
Beach Ball S 
Beef Cake Formula S 
Bionic Minnow S 
Black Slabbeth S 
Blackman's Burden S 
Blade Runner S 
Blarney Stone, The S 
Blond Princes S 
Bombodido S 
Book of Dude-Aronomy, The S 
Bur-Har-Bur S 
Cactus Cliff Addict S 
Candy for Big Kids S 
Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") S 
Cellulite District T,TR 
Centurion Enigma S 
Cheeseburger In Paradise S 
Child's Play S 
Chompin' at the Cholla S 
Christmas Tree S 
Chunky Monkey S 
Cobra S 
Commitment S 
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 
Crimpson Candy S 
Critic's Choice S 
Cro-Magnum S 
Crynoid Corner S 
Cure For The Common Crimp S 
Da Fly S 
Dances with Cholla S 
Dereliction Affliction S 
Dihedrus S 
Divinity School S 
Don't Be Messin' With Ma Moves S 
Early Bird S 
Escalando S 
Et Tu, Brutus S 
Fantasia S 
Fast Food Nation S 
Fiscal Cliff S 
Fishisms T 
Flight of the Phoenix S 
French Are Here, The S 
Fully Equipped S 
Funkdemental S 
Gabby S 
Glass Babies S 
Glue Slippage S 
Good Red Road, The S 
Gravitations S 
Great Expectations S 
Hair Trigger S 
Half Breed S 
Hero Driver S 
Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got a Hanger? S 
High Heeled Tittty Twister S 
Hot Beach S 
Hurricane Hinzi S 
I Claudius S 
I Lean S 
I'm Having A Vision S 
Ian's Climb S 
Illegal Smile S 
Impulsive Hands S 
Institutional Meat S 
Jamuary S 
Joy of Cholla, The S 
Jumpin' the Gun S 
Just Thesenga It S 
Kalahari Sidewinder S 
Killer Toupee, The T,S 
King Louie's Traverse S 
Kipu Pockets  S 
Kodachrome S 
La Temperatura de Shelf S 
LaCholla Jackson S 
Lats Don't Have Feelings S 
Legend on the Fall S 
Leisure Class S 
Manly Bulges S 
Midget Toss S 
Misalignment S 
Morning Joe S 
Mr. Fred T,TR 
Muscle Beach S 
New Ethics S 
New World Order S 
Ol' 47 S 
Oscar de la Cholla S 
Out There Take Anything S 
Paleolithic Tool Traditions S 
Part Muffalo S 
Pick Pocket S 
Politically Incorrect S 
Poquito Mas S 
Puff Daddy S 
Purple Corner T 
Quarterback S 
Quasi Quasar S 
Raven, The S 
Reach Around, The S 
Red Eclipse S 
Red Giant T 
Redman's Burden S 
Relampago S 
Richard Simmons' Tanktop S 
Risky Business S 
Shelf Pride S 
Short Man's Burden S 
Six More Bottles of Bosco S 
Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass S 
Slicer S 
Solar Eclipse S 
Southern Belle S 
Spray Lord S 
Squeeze the Moment S 
Stand, The S 
Super Suka S 
Sweet Sam S 
Third Stage S 
Three-Quarter Ton S 
Thumbs Up S 
Tits Up S 
Too Much Beef and Not Enough Meat S 
Total Recount S 
Totally Blonde S 
Turkey's Bleak T 
Two For One S 
Under A Blood Red Wall S 
Unnamed (aka Slab n' Vein) S 
Usual Suspects, The S 
Utter To A Scream S 
Wadsworth Boulevard S 
White Punks on Pockets S 
Whiteman's Burden S 
Working Man S 
World Peace S 
You Show Me Your Heavy Weapon, I'll Show You Mine S 

Manly Bulges 

YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Ryan Lewis
Page Views: 2,078
Submitted By: Hayden Miller on Apr 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Manly Bulges powers over the right side of the bul...


Short route with two hard cruxes. It is called 5.13c in the guide, but it has broken twice and is considered by some to be 5.14a. More like a V8 to a V8 in my opinion which adds up to 5.13d. The second boulder problem is a bit height-dependent. My beta involves dynoing off of a left hand undercling with a right hand two finger gaston.


This is a bit to the right of Black Slabbeth and currently has two hanging draws going up its black bulges.


8 draws should be enough.

Comments on Manly Bulges Add Comment
Show which comments
By rylew
Dec 3, 2009
rating: 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a

Ian gifted me this project in 2000 or 2001 and the fa was done by Ryan Lewis of Denver.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Dec 3, 2009

I tried this a bit and thought it was brick hard. Very small holds on the upper crux. I remember wishing there were a lower bolt to keep the rope out of the way on the lower crux and lessen the sketch factor clipping the first bolt. Good work, Ryan!
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 25, 2010
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Sent this yesterday. IMO, this is slightly easier than Green Bonus. I agree that this is sharp as hell, particularly the two-finger dish at the crux bulge, and the bolting could be improved. The crux bolt should probably be moved down & left ~12", and there really needs to be another bolt at the start. Until then, it's possible to scramble up to the ledge and pass a stick clip up to pre-clip. Or climb Totally Blonde and lower down this.

I really think this is a quality route, despite the above detractions. The rock is absolutely stellar, some of the best at Cactus. The moves are cerebral & fun. I tried this once in 2008 and came away with the same conclusions as everyone else: sharp, height-dependent, sandbagged. However, there is another sequence, glaringly obvious once you figure it out, that is not height-dependent, and IMO significantly easier than the beta described above.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Feb 27, 2010

It is funny how a 20-25' choss scramble to a high first bolt undermines the experience.
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 27, 2010
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

I can add a bolt if nobody objects. I thought about doing it, but I thought I should send it first in its current state. It can be made safe the way it is, but it's kinda ridiculous for a route like this, at Cactus Cliff of all places, to have too few bolts. I lead it ground up my 2nd burn, and it was mildly terrifying making the last few moves to the first bolt. You could definitely fall there, and a fall would definitely put you in the hospital (or worse).
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 27, 2010
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Ok, I emailed Ryan Lewis & Ian Spencer-Green, and they both approve the addition of a bolt at the start. If there are any objections, speak up.
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 5, 2010
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Ben & I were able to get the new bolt in today. Thanks, Ben, for the belay and the use of your drill!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About