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Manic Depression 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jay Knower, Peter Dodge-June 2007 First TR: Erik Olson 2004
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,067
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Jul 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Kayte Decker ready for the "massive cleaning ...


Locate the wall to the right of the classic Swiss Cheese. Manic Depression climbs up past four bolts on the left side of the wall. The route is steeper than it looks from the ground, and it's a bit less tweaky than other routes in the area.

Stick clip the first bolt. Start with difficult, thin balancy moves to gain a stance on the right below the second bolt. Then move slightly left, past a cool sequence up to the third bolt. Continue straight up to the top past another bolt en route to the anchors.

The left crack/weakness is definitely off, though when climbing the bolt line, these holds don't seem that tempting.


Four bolts

Photos of Manic Depression Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt sending Manic Depression.  Tricky and fun.
Matt sending Manic Depression. Tricky and fun.
Rock Climbing Photo: manic depression
manic depression
Rock Climbing Photo: Manic Depression
Manic Depression
Rock Climbing Photo: Manic Depression
Manic Depression
Rock Climbing Photo: manic depression
manic depression
Rock Climbing Photo: the start...
the start...
Rock Climbing Photo: Trundle Pete in green...
BETA PHOTO: Trundle Pete in green...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 14, 2012
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Jul 1, 2007

Special credit should also be given to James Schroeder for the original vision of this line and to Kayte Decker for her massive cleaning effort. The wall was less than pristine when we started, but thanks to Kayte's dualing brushes and her cloud of dust, it's clean now.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jul 15, 2007

Years ago when I was a student at Stevens Point, we worked this route on top-rope a couple times. I'm not sure if anyone ever did it, but great work on cleaning and bolting the line guys. It was a ghost crag for a long time, so its really great to see people climbing in the area again.
By Erik Olson
Jul 17, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I beleive this is the same climb I just posted a few days ago as "Manic Depression". I will have to check it out when I get down there to be sure. If it is the same climb the rating of 5.11b seems a bit low.
By James Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Jul 18, 2007
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a


I borrowed your photo of Manic Depression, and overlayed a line showing where Trundle Pete goes. I had always assumed your TR line was to the right of this, going up through the overhangs, etc.

Trundle Pete makes a quick dash up for the pocket, on somewhat thin climbing. Next it traverses the bulge heading left on relatively easy climbing (although exceedingly height dependent) and then heads up into the scoop at the top, finally finshing with a dynamic move from the upper patina to the horizontal.

By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Jul 18, 2007

From the sounds of it, Trundle Pete and Manic Depression are the same route. I spent a while trying to TR a way up this face, and Trundle is the only line I saw. The line to the right would maybe go, but it would be very hard. Plus, that conspicuous jug is very loose and would need to be pried off. This might make the route way, way hard.

I thought 11b seemed accurate for Trundle, but maybe it's a bit harder. The best way to figure this out is to have a bunch of people do the route and get a consensus going. To me, though, it seemed similar to ABM and Black Rib at DL.

By Erik Olson
Jul 21, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Manic Depression and Trundle Pete are the same route. The route further right has been sessioned many times and seems to be extremely difficult and I beleive no one has made it further than say 10-15 feet from the ground. I beleive that Manic Depression is at least in the 5.12 range, but then again I am only 5'10" and when I did the last moves I did them staticly vs dynamicly.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Jul 22, 2007

This route needs traffic to confirm the grade. Go out there and get on it. It would be a shame for it to get dirty again.
By Kayte Knower
Jul 22, 2007

I think the debate over the grade of Manic Depressive could be related to beta. I'm 5'2" so slapping up either side of the bulge was really hard for me. Jay used an undercling to bypass the last two slap moves before the top of the bulge. That beta made the crux considerably easier. With that beta, I would probably would put this route at 11c, as it was quite reachy for me. I'd say it's less sustained than Pagan Rituals. I think the cruxes of the two routes are equally hard, albeit different styles.
By TravisMelin
From: Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Jul 22, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

well! let me be the first to add to the consensus....i went with 5.11c. Thought it was very technical and balancy, .11b felt a little low.
By waxisgood
From: Milwaukee, WI
Sep 17, 2007

i would have to say this is around a 11c or 11d. there is no need to stick clip the first bolt either. great route though nice and sustained
By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Apr 15, 2009

Sweet and solid bit of sport climbing here. I really enjoyed working this route. I really enjoyed unlocking the sequence of the top moves. The reverse right hand push to move up into final moves is super fun and styl'n.... Tough little route...

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

finally got on this thing. Great route. The rest in the middle was needed.
By Sumbit
From: My house
Jun 27, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Finally got on this. Bottom was a little dirty, I'll bring some brushes back the next time. To me the bottom was the crux, very thin. Great line that needs to be climbed more and it will stay clean. Given the local nature of this crag this would make a great project for someone climbing above their limit. We mostly climb in the Red River Gorge and using that as a baseline both of us that got on it rated it 11d. I know Wisconsin grades tend to be more stout but this would be a very difficult send for a high 11 low 12 leader. We had a mid 10 leader TR it later and he couldn't get up it. Thanks for the great job on this, fun climb.
By Tradiban
Aug 12, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I was thinking 5.11b/c. Hard to start! The first clip is very balancey, stick clip might be good. This was not very dirty at all today, just a bit o' scrubbin' made it shine!
By Taylor VanRoekel
May 14, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is definitely one of the best routes at the hollow. Crux is certainly the opening thin moves. After you hit the sidepocket and cross over into the layback rest, the remainder of the route consists of a couple moves to an awesome dynamic move off a small right hand patina. Feels a little harder than 5.11c. Id posit 5.11d-12

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