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Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 3,043
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jul 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Solid finger locks are the norm on the route. Marc...


A beautiful slightly overhanging finger crack with just enough footholds and pockets on the faces. Shake out at the hand jam rest before a couple of thin, cruxy face moves to easier terrain at the top. Bear to the right up high to reach the anchors.

Originally rated 5.11c/d, but general consensus is that this is a notch or two easier. Still, it's sustained (for White Rock), with no great rests.

At least 2 longtime LA climbers swear this crack was not called Manic Crack back in the day; that this and the crack to its right (now called Lost Nerve in the guidebooks) were referred to as the "Twin Cracks". This makes sense, that the "Manic Crack" name resulted from its nearness to the sport climb "Manic Nirvana", which was bolted in '89 or '90, but most of the cracks here and even some of the faces had been climbed earlier, on TR if not on lead.


Obvious slightly overhanging finger crack just right of the Banshees bolted arete climb.


Rack of cams from a #0.3 camalot to a #2 camalot; some may want 1-3 extras of #0.4 camalot size. Nuts also may be useful, though they're harder to place from pumpy stances.
At the top, angle to the right from the top to the 2-bolt anchor for Manic Nirvana (the sport climb just to the right).

Photos of Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: When the finger crack ends it's on to the tiny cri...
When the finger crack ends it's on to the tiny cri...
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Smith sending in style.
Josh Smith sending in style.
Rock Climbing Photo: George Perkins placing a piece to protect the crux...
George Perkins placing a piece to protect the crux...
Rock Climbing Photo: George Perkins looking solid on his first clean se...
George Perkins looking solid on his first clean se...

Comments on Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) Add Comment
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By Dave Wachter
Mar 13, 2008

Super sweet finger crack with nice feet and unlimited gear placements. Nice hand jam rest halfway up, one size fits all. I agree that the rating is too generous (10+ or 11- more like it). Again! Again!
By Matthias Lang
From: Albuquerque
Nov 17, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I went left to the Banshees anchor, hope I didn't miss any of the good climbing.
Awesome route!
By ninjadan
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 19, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

One of the best cracks in wr. Not to be missed!

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