Mangorewa Gorge Rock Climbing
River wall, Mangorewa Gorge
Mangorewa gorge is a unique and magical place to climb. The cliffs rise straight from the Mangorewa streambed, through lush canopy towards the sky. The climbs are generally long and varied and the environment enchanting. 1-2 pitch sport routes that generally favor finesse over biceps. About 30 routes developed so far.
For more info check out Rock Deluxe North guidebook
Approach via SH 36 from either the north (via Tauranga) or the south (via Rotorua). About 2km south of the Te Matai road turnoff is a carpark on the western side of the road. This carpark is distinguished by a large wooden maori carving about 6m tall. Park at his carpark. Walk 300m ish North and cross the road. From here follow the Mangorewa river downstream for about 20 mins. The river is generally very shallow (20cm ish) with a smooth base so you can generally walk down the river. Avoid this area after heavy rains as their is a risk of flash floods. Continue to follow the stream and you will reach the crag. River wall is the first large wall to your right.
Climbing Season For the North Island area.
Weather station 11.4 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Mangorewa Gorge
Drag Queen 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Oceania
: New Zealand
: ... : Archimedes Wall
Climb up and right from the belay through the weakness in the roof. Follow the bolts that then swing back left on an exposed slab traverse before finishing up the headwall. No real crux section, but quite sustained. Take some long quickdraws or you will find out the hard way why this route is called "Drag Queen". Dont try and descend from the top to the river in one abseil unless you have a 70m rope....[more] Browse More Classics in International