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Mango Lassi Lulz Machine 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 620', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Vitaliy Musiyenko and Adam Burch (4/17/2015)
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 840
Submitted By: SirTobyThe3rd on Apr 21, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Adam on the 2nd pitch of the route

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A very enjoyable route with some fun, moderate and a bit of hard climbing mixed in. The quality of rock, setting, sea of slingable chicken heads and lack of need for a giant rack make this climb a must do.

Pitch 1: 180 ft - 5.10+. Starts with well protected 5.8 slab to a stance below the bolt. You can place a BD .5 camalot below the overhang before clipping the bolt. Back clean the cam and place it below the big roof. Pull the roof and place a BD #1 or 0.75, than an offset purple/blue metolious or something like a green or a blue alien before clipping the bolt. One more bolt before the crux and a few more exciting moves before reaching thank god chicken heads. Climb straight up to a chicken head/bolt belay.

Pitch 2: 160 ft - 5.superfun chicken head jug haul to another chickenhead/bolt anchor.

Pitch 3: 150 ft - 5.10a. Great friction 5.8-9 slab past 3 bolts and a 5.9-10a move to pull the overhang past another bolt. More chicken heads take you to a chicken head anchor belay. Cool pitch.

Pitch 4: 130 ft - 5.6. Bolt off the belay protects the 5.6ish climbing to a cool yellow dike. Hike the dike and continue up low 5th terrain till it starts getting really easy. You can belay in a large stack of blocks to your left.

Location 

Starts just left of Welcome to Wallmart and right of The Boardwalk Chimney

Protection 

Single rack from BD 0.5 to BD #.75. Blue/Purple offset useful for 1 placement in a flaring crack on P1.


Photos of Mango Lassi Lulz Machine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: fantastic friction
fantastic friction
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.superfun on pitch 2
5.superfun on pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Route overlay for Mango Lassi LULZ Machine and The...
Route overlay for Mango Lassi LULZ Machine and The...
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam following the first pitch
Adam following the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Ground up, nukka!
Ground up, nukka!

Comments on Mango Lassi Lulz Machine Add Comment
Show which comments
By Burcheydawwwwwwg
Apr 21, 2015
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

put one in the chamber...

Seriously though, this climb is a blast. It's got a little bit of everything, with lots of great movement through the harder sections. Fantastic moderate slab climbing that keeps you engaged, and the rock quality is out of control. You'll appreciate the bolt placements through the section of hard face climbing on the 1st pitch, make sure to load up on mango lassi before you pull the crux moves.
By limpingcrab
From: Visalia, CA
Apr 21, 2015

I naked free-soloed this before you were born!
By Rob Buels
Aug 9, 2017

Going on the todo list just for the name.

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