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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 1,828
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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milking the rest before the crux

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Slippery jugs and sidepulls with now-you-see-them-now-you-don't feet to a good rest.

Following the rest comes the crux: A tricky, strenuous roof problem that is all about feet. The bit past the crux is exciting due to lingering crux-pump.

Finally, a bit of nerve-wracking (you don't want to blow it here, now do you?) traverse moves with poor feet to the chains.


8 bolts to a 2 chain anchor.


Second line from the right on the lower (right-most) part of Membrane.

Photos of Mandela Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: fun lower sequences
fun lower sequences

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By tenesmus
Aug 18, 2006

Its on the far right of the crag, left of Riptide, Bill Boyle did the FA and the roof is funkadelic.
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Jul 22, 2012

The first 4 bolts is not a gimme. Go straight up and trend left with 3-4 bolts a bit run out. Hand jams, underclings, side pulls with tension specific foot holds keep u on the wall. Find the arm bar or knee bar rest in the cave area before the obvious crux. Power thru the crux on thin holds and find some relief up higher. It's all about your foot sequence. Ouch my fingers hurt after climbing this thing.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
May 3, 2015

Not the best route at the crag. Could use another bolt between 4-5, but the climbing seemed secure enough in the sharp crack despite early season wet slime. The crux contained no pocket jugs so therefore I flailed.

I wonder if Nelson has sent...
By Ken Noyce
From: Layton, UT
Aug 26, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I guess you're supposed to traverse left at the top to the chains? I didn't see anything to the left, so I traversed right to the anchors atop Riptide. I guess I'll have to figure out where the actual anchors are for this route next time I give it a go.

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