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Man With a Hueco in His Tights 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dr. Steve Johnson - the bird guy
Page Views: 4,932
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 14, 2007  with updates from George Grzyb

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (115)
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torie whipping on her onsight attempt... a solid e...


Classic at the grade.

Stick clip first bolt, which until it is replaced, is likely a spinner, making that a challenge.

Start low on a very textured large hold and get high feet, extend up and left to gain another rail-ish type hold that is interesting, get high feet and either go up and left to catch the flake in an undercling or go out right to catch the arete and couple of heucos and some more interesting moves to eventually gain the flake 4 feet above the bottom undercling. Continue up the flake (it is solid to pull on, just not for gear)to gain the jugs to clip the anchors.

Harder for shorter climbers.
A great climb for the 5.11- climber to work out/tick.
A great climb to burn out on for the 5.11-5.12 climber.

Be careful cleaning on the lower that you don't pendulum into the rock behind you. It may be better to have someone clean while seconding.


At the lowest point of the triple corners V.


4 bolts to chains. Watch out for hitting the ledge to your left if you botch the 2nd clip.

Photos of Man With a Hueco in His Tights Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: torie killing the opening boulder problem
torie killing the opening boulder problem
Rock Climbing Photo: Man With a Hueco in His Tights climbs up the large...
BETA PHOTO: Man With a Hueco in His Tights climbs up the large...
Rock Climbing Photo: torie getting after it
torie getting after it
Rock Climbing Photo: Lee jamming the flake crack
Lee jamming the flake crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonny working onto the flake
Jonny working onto the flake
Rock Climbing Photo: jeff gaining the undercling... photo by nicole han...
jeff gaining the undercling... photo by nicole han...
Rock Climbing Photo: jeff in the bouldery start...  photo by Nicole han...
jeff in the bouldery start... photo by Nicole han...
Rock Climbing Photo: photo by Nicole Hansche...
photo by Nicole Hansche...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jimmy's onsight!!!
Jimmy's onsight!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Static reach.
Static reach.
Rock Climbing Photo: The bottom half of Man With a Hueco in His Tights.
BETA PHOTO: The bottom half of Man With a Hueco in His Tights.
Rock Climbing Photo: Muel Todzia pulling the crux moves on the right si...
BETA PHOTO: Muel Todzia pulling the crux moves on the right si...

Comments on Man With a Hueco in His Tights Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 11, 2015
By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Aug 21, 2007

This route is classic, as Ladd said there are options at the bottom, and I choose to leave my hands out of the two obvious Heuco's, however they make great foot holds. At the top it is possible and fun to knee bar before clipping the anchors.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 21, 2007

i found this route to be way easier after learning to handjam... i hate laybacks with a passion...
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Dec 15, 2008

Just to get a better idea about this route how many bolts are there?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 15, 2008

its like 4-5 bolts...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 3, 2009

Here is a video link of Mike Thompson warming up on Loose and Baggy 5.8+ then flashing Man with the Hueco in His tights 5.11b...
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Jul 19, 2009

An awesome short route! Gets easier as you go, so don't stop cranking! The start is very powerful and bouldery, with a few options. The clips arent too hard if you find some good heel hooks and or knee bars.
By rdlennon
From: New Hampshire
Aug 29, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The presence of the block makes this otherwise excellent route a bit contrived. The entire crux basically amounts to a sit start to the real route, since you can stem or step onto the block at any point. The whole thing is fun, but it's weird having to call a part of it 'off'.
By twellman
From: Cambridge
May 10, 2010

I think this route might actually feel more like 10d, especially when you know the moves... there is no way in hell it is as hard as Flyin Hawaiin. Stick clipping the second bolt, which is not a bad idea with that rock below you, makes it considerably easier.
By M Sprague
From: New England
May 11, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

10d/11a. It feels to me about the same difficuly as Student Loan and Clusterphobia
By S. Neoh
Aug 1, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Start on the ground and not the raised block; it adds two interesting moves to the climb and raises the overall quality.
I second Mark's grade suggestion; just a tiny bit harder than Clusterphobia.
By Eric Engberg
Aug 2, 2010

For us who are challenged by stick clipping - especially when not using a stick but leaning out over the "abyss" - it would be nice to fix the damn spinning hanger.
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Sep 15, 2010

Eric, Now that I have this route dialed the stick clipping IS the crux ;). if you stand up on the block and clip from there it isn't too bad. ask your son, he'll teach you how to stick clip .11+
By Matt Glue
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 9, 2011

Awesome route! The new guidebook calls it 11a. I would agree, especially if you know how to handjam.
By Lanky
From: Tired
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This would be a fantastic short route, but the first big flake creaked when I pulled on it, which I found thoroughly disconcerting. Definitely harder than Clusterphobia in my opinion, but not two letter grades.
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Apr 29, 2013

Sent this in 2 tries this weekend - 1 follow, 1 lead. No hand-jamming necessary for me. Very fun climbing, whatever the grade is.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 29, 2013

"no hand jams necessary" makes it sound like it's something to avoid when you can :P
thats like saying, didnt need the kneebars or something... i will climb 10' off route to find a hand jam or a kneebar even if its a warm up haha...
all jokes aside, Nice Job!!!!!
By The Fat Kid
Nov 18, 2013

Is there a reason why the clipping jug for the fourth bolt has a big "X" on it? My partner and I agreed that it felt really solid as of 11/17/13.

We did this in light rain and the route was dry below the "X'd" jug, but clipping the chains was dicey as the top was soaking wet and required an impromptu arm bar!
By Alissa Doherty
From: Boston, MA
Jun 16, 2014

I believe the guidebook makes note, but this climbs a bit differently for a short folks. I found it required alternate beta in two places before gaining the crack/flake. It's a nice (but tough) puzzle for the vertically challenged.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 13, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Wicked fun short climb, but no way is it a 5.11 (at least not for tall people). I thought cleaning the route was harder (and definitely more strenuous) than climbing it. Too bad the big flake isn't two or three times as long. If it were, this route would be a New Hampshire classic.
By George Grzyb
Oct 21, 2014

A few spinning bolt hangers. Unable to fix as it appears my 9/16 wrench is not compatible with most bolts at Rumney.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Aug 2, 2015
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

All bolts are spinners. Lots of flexing holds on this route. Still pretty fun.
By teresamatrix
From: Los Angeles, CA
Sep 21, 2015

A basketball size chunk of this climb has fallen off of this climb somewhere near the bottom. It must have happened sometime in the last three weeks. The opening moves are now harder, but I'm not sure to what degree...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 24, 2015

knew that was coming... I look forward to seeing how it climbs now...
By S. Neoh
Oct 11, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Almost no change, Lee. The block that fell off came from about 4 feet below the 1st bolt. The start (from the ground, people, not the block) might be a bit harder but the overall difficulty of the route is unchanged. We all commented how much slicker the footholds felt today so it felt .11a to me today. :)

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