REI Community
Shannon Falls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cardhu Crack T 
Charlotte's Ride to the Sky T 
Chewbacca T 
Dirty Dicky T 
Hungry Wolf T 
Hunters Moon T 
Jump to Light Speed T 
Klahanie Crack T 
Local Boys Do Good T,S 
Man of Leisure T,S 
Never Say Never T 
No bolts TR 
Poultry in Motion T 
Skywalker T 
Split Decision T 
Urine too Deep T 

Man of Leisure 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Glen Payan, John Thompson, Jeff Thompson
Page Views: 1,456
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Dec 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The Man of No Leisure (5.10a) from the 1999 Climbe...


A long, high-quality route on beautiful stone. It has some friction moves, some crack, some traversing on an intrusion/dyke, just about everything except an overhang.


The far south end of the wall at Shannon Falls curves around to face more towards the south. Walk along the base of the cliff from the falls area until it curves up and around to a very nice clearing below a smooth face. The route up the cracks in the face is Poultry in Motion, the more rounded buttress on the left is Man of Leisure. The trail isn't heavily used, so it may take some false starts to get there.


Mostly bolts but a small selection of finger and hand sized nuts and cams is necessary. Descent by rappel (but note that the route is longer than 100 feet) or by walking around to the east then south.

Comments on Man of Leisure Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 13, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

The trail is now VERY heavily used :) It's the descent for the uber-popular Skywalker. Find Skywalker, and keep heading up the trail past numerous hand lines. As you round the final corner of the buttress a big ledge heads out left to anchor bolts.

This was a fabulous route, but I was surprised to find a slightly heady section in the middle after the well protected bottom.

Towards the top when you transition into a hand crack the gear was not inspiring and the climbing - while not hard - was also not trivial. It was a bit scruffy from lack of travel, so that might had made the climbing slightly insecure. Perhaps a pink tricam (or bigger?) might have tamed the fiddy gear - but as it was I had an ok HB Offset (#3,4, or 5, not sure) and a marginal green camalot. I was happy when I plugged in a #1 above it!

After climbing the hand crack, I wasn't sure of where to go so I aimed for the bolt atop Poultry in Motion. The climbing is easy (5.6 slab), but expect LOTS of rope drag!!! Making it 5.6++++++++ :)

A fun route, and popularity will surely increase with the Skywalker traffic.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Sep 9, 2012

There's a hilarious pic in the old (1999?) McLane guidebook of Mr. Payan's FA in a leisure suit.
By tsherry
From: Portland, OR
Mar 30, 2016

Mark, that picture is so good! Wish I had scanned it when I had that book.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About