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Man in Black 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
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Page Views: 121
Submitted By: Alex Sazenski on Mar 16, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Working through the crux sequence on Man in Black.

Description 

Man in Black is a fun route with enjoyable, slightly overhung climbing on jugs to the first roof. At the roof, a tricky crux sequence involving a slot that is not as good as you would like, a deep two finger pocket, and a decent edge interrupt the easy climbing found below. After pulling the crux, pull onto a slab section with good holds, and pull past the second roof into a nice dihedral to clip the anchors.

Location 

This route is located further left of routes Bonnie and Clyde and directly to the right side of Swinging Richards. The start of the route is directly below an obvious roof feature.

Protection 

6 bolts with anchors.


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By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse, WI
Mar 27, 2017

Guidebook says 5.12a, but there's no way. Once you figure out the beta, it's like a V3 roof problem. 5.11c/d is fair.
By Allison Moran
From: Denver, CO
Jul 17, 2017

Great example of a height-dependent grade. At 5'6", I was able to move through the crux over the roof with a dynamic move; however, my 5'2" friend had to find an incredibly difficult alternative. The route is 12a in the book and 11c in MP, but it probably depends on your body type. More importantly, it is an extremely fun route. Be sure to get on it if you're on this wall.

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