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2. Baldy
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ballroom T,TR 
Chute TR 
Devil's Elbow TR 
Gunsight TR 
High Nowhere TR 
High Rustler TR 
Jitterbug TR 
Mambo T,TR 

Mambo 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 59
Submitted By: kenr on Jan 1, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Baldy sector + Albion pillar: A - High Rustler B -...

Description 

Up the gully (or alongside it) to the left-hand crack, then up the crack to the top.
Variation: About half-way up the lower gully, move left onto the arete and up that to a puzzling move (5.6), then finish on the left-hand crack.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location 

Bottom of the gully which is below the left-hand one of the twin cracks on the left (west) edge of the main Baldy face.
Can be reached on Top-Rope by lowering down the obvious gully -- either after climbing up the Ballroom route, or quicker by scrambling from the main Baldy base area left (west) up and across the two sculpted shield flakes.
Or could be reached from below at Sunny Picnics area by way by the Tour des Picnics route.
Or by traversing right before the top of the Access Scramble route.

Protection 

Top-Rope: Tree for top anchor with static line, can be reached by hiking and scrambling NorthEast from top of Tower Wall.

Leading: standard Trad rock, with emphasis on wide cams (#3 Camalot could be useful) and larger stoppers.


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