Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Elixir Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alchemy T 
Apothecary T 
Eye of Newt T 
Mama's Magic Milk S 
Mother's Milk S 
Strange Brew T 
Toe of Frog T 
Tongue of Dog T 
Witch's Brew T 
Wool of Bat T 

Mama's Magic Milk 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Barnes, Mark Lovell 7/2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 80
Submitted By: JimmyB on Sep 6, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Start as for Mother’s Milk. A cruxy start leads to a pitch of fun 5.10 climbing. After clipping the 9th bolt, continue up steep and sustained face. 35m. Shares anchor with Apothecary. Watch rope end when lowering off!

Location 

Elixir Wall Center. Lower off.

Protection 

14 quickdraws.


Comments on Mama's Magic Milk Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Scheuerell
Sep 10, 2016

Ya, short people need to be able to clip the bolts too. but I really wished that first one was a bit higher. Most of my short climbing partners have a clip stick and carry a stiff draw any how.
By kc06
Oct 1, 2016

Awesome route, my favorite on the wall. I'm a vertically challenged climber (5'2").....I can't say I've ever used a stick clip so I totally appreciated the first bolt placement. Committing first moves for sure but super fun!