Mama Says Knock You Out
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In the middle of the wall, to the right of the 5.9-, before you get to Body English
(big dihedral), there's a right-angling crack that goes through a little roof about fifteen feet up.
Great climb! If you're looking for your first 5.11 trad lead, this one ain't bad. The crux is near the start of the climb, so you can place your pro then come down for a rest. Be careful not to clog up the crack with gear that limits handholds later. There's a decent first placement on the left, out of the main crack system. Don't read further if you want to figure out the crux yourself....
A unique undercling, left jam, together with a right jam up higher in the crack just over the roof is the combination that can help you power up to the next hold for the left (a bit of a stretch). Then get your right foot up, lay back a bit to your left, and place some more gear. There's a second roof up higher that's a bit tricky as well, and the rock is a bit rotten in places, so watch your step.
Rappel from the anchor under the big roof. There's a modified route--supposedly 5.13--that continues past the anchor. Look up at the big-ass glued on hold.... Doesn't look like much of a natural line even after that thing, but then again, I don't climb 5.13....
Full rack. Include a few medium hexes....
By Mark Pell
Mar 23, 2014
This is a cool route also done by Alvino and me around '94 or '95, and we bouldered up and down the start many times while camping on that ledge. Eventually we placed a couple of reliable fixed, opposed nuts under the roof, and Alvino went for it first on the lead and flashed. These fixed nuts disappeared a few months later. I recommend you take the time to place very solid omni-directional protection at the roof that will not pull out, even if it takes you a couple of preliminary bouldering passes before going on the lead. There is a good stem/layback rest above the first crux, but it gets strenuous if you hang out too long - use it to get in some more solid gear before pressing to the next stance and also have a 1" to 2" cam unit ready to jam in the crack to protect the surprisingly awkward mantle out of the shallow corner above the crux. Now you are standing on a small ledge below a bulge with a flake. This is best climbed on the right, and the pro is not bad. Move back left slightly then straight up a short face, finding good 1" nut and cam pro behind a horizontal flake below the next roof. Jam the obvious crack, which is awkward and strenuous but well-protected and not really difficult. An easy face above leads a short way to the big ledge with the bolts and chains in the roof.