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Mosaic Rock
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Baby Cakes T 
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Chicken Heads T 
Chicken Shit T 
Clean Green Dream T 
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Dirty Black Nightmare T 
Dirty Diagonal T 
Dung Alley T 
Fine Little Line S 
Five Years After T 
Fried Chickens T 
Holthouse to Hell T 
Jug or Not S 
Mama Jugs T 
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 
Rite of Summer Dreams T 
Seaman Girl T 
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Techtonics T,S 
Techweenie S 
Threshold S 
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 
Walking Dread T 

Mama Jugs 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 3,927
Submitted By: George Perkins on Sep 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Donna Longo placing bomber wires. Photo courtesy ...

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This one is great. The line is somewhat confusing to follow (hopefully this helps). Mama Jugs does not have bolts, except for a 2-bolt anchor for toproping the bottom half of it (it helps if you find this before you start- the climb goes straight up to it).

Start up the scrambling slot approach to Dirty Diagonal and the "hardman Mosaic Wall Tech climbs". Walk left on the slab, left of a new 5.9+ sport climb, and belay here near a tiny pine bush (the left of the 2 tiny pine bushes you can see). (You can also get here by climbing directly up low angle slab just right of a tilted ponderosa tree). If you go too far left, you might see a bolt for Seaman Girl. It helps if you find the 2-bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch.

Climb straight up the alligator flakes, with creative pro and great moves to a 2-bolt anchor on a small ledge. Lower off if you have a good reason, or climb the 2nd pitch for full value.

For the 2nd pitch, move right off the belay into a left-facing corner. Climb this corner, step right then fire straight up over the giant chickenhead on the skyline. Build a belay up on top of the dome.

The 2 pitches can be linked with a 60m rope, if you pay attention to rope drag.

Topping out is recommended, at least once, since you get to explore the summit area of Tres Piedras's biggest rock on the traverse to the descent off the east side.


Toward the left side of the S face of Mosaic Rock, identify the smaller and left-most of 2 pine trees just left of the exquisite and steep Mosaic Wall, above low slabs. Mama Jugs proceeds up from here.

To descend: 3rd class walkoff to the east.


Cams and nuts to 3", RPs helpful.

Photos of Mama Jugs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Mama Jugs from southern approach: (A) indi...
BETA PHOTO: View of Mama Jugs from southern approach: (A) indi...
Rock Climbing Photo: TED dinner plate mantling 2
TED dinner plate mantling 2
Rock Climbing Photo: dinner plate mantling
dinner plate mantling
Rock Climbing Photo: Kristen on the lower slabs of "Mama Jugs"...
Kristen on the lower slabs of "Mama Jugs"...
Rock Climbing Photo: Passing through the lower crux  Photo courtesy of ...
Passing through the lower crux Photo courtesy of ...

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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 23, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Mmmm...mama jugs! C3s, 000 and 00 specifically, along with tiny nuts, are nice on the first pitch of this route. Can be done as one long pitch with a 70m rope (probably even a 60m) but look out for rope drag.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 7, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Know how to use your nuts!
By Minesh Bacrania
Oct 19, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

An excellent route! Follow the line made by the pine tree propping the wall up and the tiny pine bush directly above it. The pro is somewhat thought-provoking, but didn't require any micronuts.
By Stephen Carlos Rydalch
From: Golden, CO
May 7, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

You can climb this entire route in 1 pitch, ground to top of the cliff, with a 60 meter rope. Rope drag will have to be well managed. Not clipping or extending a sling on the bolt anchors before traversing right proves helpful.
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
May 9, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Crux for me definitely was the mantle on top of the eponymous "mama jug". If belaying up a shaky second, make sure you place a nut in the thin seam a few feet above this; if you don't, a fall for them could mean a mama pendulum!
By Keith B. Ives
From: Washington, DC
Oct 31, 2011

I had trouble finding this w/out pics... There are new bolted routes that made it a bit tough. Also, there are 2 little pine trees that can confuse things. Anyways, on the ledge from the left: There is a crack, a green stain (with one bolt), & then your pine tree. Start directly above the pine tree (not to the left of it).
By Steven Reneau
Feb 15, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If only climbing the 1st pitch, you can belay from the ground with a 70 m rope.

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