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Maltese Falcon Cliff

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Maltese Falcon Cliff Rock Climbing 

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Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006
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Small cliff on the left side of the trail. Faces South and gets a lot of sun later in the day.

Getting There 

Take the trail from the parking lot. Stay straight past the first right turn (at the big boulder). Continue up taking the left fork at the base of the hill. Cliff is right off the trail on the left.

Climbing Season

For the Main Island area.

Weather station 10.1 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Maltese Falcon Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Maltese Falcon Cliff:
Maltese Falcon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Maltese Falcon Cliff

Featured Route For Maltese Falcon Cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: Maltese Falcon (5.12a), Clark Canyon

Maltese Falcon 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Maltese Falcon Cliff
A long chossy slab leads up to the first bolt. At this point the route becomes steep with long moves between really good holds until a small overlap/undercling. The crux follows with hard technical moves off of sidepulls and crimps. The crux is relatively short but tricky. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on Maltese Falcon Cliff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Matiasek
From: Davis, CA
Oct 11, 2010
Does anyone know anything about the route right next to the maltese Falcon? It looks like it could be a touch easier but just as beautiful. It is not in the Marty Lewis and John Moynier mammoth area climbs book. thanks
By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 12, 2010
I don't know the name of the route but it was put up by Lonnie Kauk and is around .11d. The crux is low and then it follows awesome pockets. Definitely a good addition to the cliff.
He also added the beautiful face above the parking lot. It's in Marty's guide as a project. Its called Giant Steps and is .13a and 5 star.
By Mike Matiasek
From: Davis, CA
Oct 18, 2010
Thanks for the response, I will have to give it a try! It looks like a great line. Might not be till next season though now... almost time to break out the skis!


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