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Mallory's Malice T 

Mallory's Malice 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: CMC rock school?
Page Views: 1,151
Submitted By: BWpete on Feb 17, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Day of FA.

Description 

A. Climb the finger crack, there are slots for BD nuts sized 4-8. (5.6+)

B. Climb through some loose flakes and slabs, there are slots for cams around #1 BD. (5.6)

C. Use the crack of this large flake to place a piece for the traverse over to the true route. Use a #10 BD nut, or a #2 cam.

D. The traverse is 10-15 feet long, climb slightly down as you cross. There are some good ledges and flakes for your feet; you can swing out a leg to cross into the crack system. A fall would be very uncomfortable but not severe. (5.7)

E. There is an ancient pin that is fairly well placed. There are a few balancy moves. . This is a good place for an anchor. There is a slot for a size 13 nut, and some small cams #.75 and a Metolius cam size #1 and 2.

F. The moves bringing you over the bulge is the crux. A medium cam can protect the moves. A #5 Metolius fits better than a BD cam, but you can use either a .75 or a 1 if you only have BD. It is a good idea to extend the pieces to reduce rope drag. Once you pull through the harder moves you can throw a beautiful #2 BD into a slot and move on to comfort. (5.7+)

G. There are a few slab moves up to an excellent lay back finger crack. You can throw in some great nuts. If you don't have a 70-meter rope, pause here for an anchor. Keep working up the layback and place a good nut at the top. Work up onto the easy slab with face climbing, above here the pro gets a little scarce. (5.6)

H. The slab and face moves are easy but fun. Look out for a good micro nut placement, and then work up to the top. There are 25 feet of 5.5 slab that cannot be protected, and then the climb turns into 4th class terrain. The last 100 feet are unprotectable. Once you get to the top you will see a huge bolder. Throw a couple cams in the crack at the bottom, or just sling the whole thing for an anchor. (5.5) [If you have a shorter rope MAKE SURE YOU SET AN ANCHOR WITHIN 25 METERS OF THE LAST ONE. The dome rounds out and the last 20-25 meters are unprotectable so if you get stuck up there you are pretty nicely screwed.]

DESCENT. Walk right (North) and down until you find a tree to rap down off of. You will need two ropes. You can also down climb a 5.5 slab to the ground, though a fall would surely result in injury.

Protection 

Bring a set of BD Camalots .4-3.5, or 1-8 Metolius, as well as a full set of stoppers.

The pro at the end (last 100 feet) is next to none but other than that, you can throw something in every 7-10 feet. On the first pitch, the gear may be slightly questionable because there are some expanding flakes.



Photos of Mallory's Malice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: From second belay boulder. Note the 100 feet of ru...
From second belay boulder. Note the 100 feet of ru...
Rock Climbing Photo: From the first belay.
From the first belay.

Comments on Mallory's Malice Add Comment
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By Evan Pilant
Mar 2, 2005

This route is really awesome, and it faces south, so it gets sun all day. You can climb it anytime there is sunshine, but be ready for small streams off water on the route if you choose to climb it the day after it snows. Also, be careful if you have a 50 meter or even a 60 meter rope because pitches are long and communication is difficult.
By Michael J Yarros
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 8, 2005

This formation is called the Devil's Slide.

It's easy to walk off the top by heading west a little then down the edge of the formation. It will take you down to the road on the left side of the rock.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 26, 2009

We got chased up this route by a fun little lightning storm. :O There is a gorgeous finger crack that you can follow all the way to an intersection of three cracks for the first belay, then continue to follow until it disappears for the 100 ft of class 4 terrain.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 30, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed the variation -- looked like a more direct line. A decent climb, but I thought it was only about 5.6 or 5.7. Did it in two pitches with a 70m rope. The runout at the top is very low angle and probably no harder than 5.3 -- did not seem like it really needed to be protected with rock shoes on (if it's dry).

Like Michael Y. says above, it's an easy hike back down to the road by walking off to the climber's left at the end of the climb.
By Ben D.
From: Colorado
May 12, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

This is a fun route with relative solitude, great views, and close to town! The climbing felt very easy given the grade, and I would say it was mostly 5.5 with a few easy 5.6 moves to make the traverse on P1 (labeled as "D" in the beta photo) into the prominent gash and then a couple more 5.6 moves making your way around the bulge crux (labeled as "F").

We set the first belay at the old fixed pin (just above "E" in the beta photo) right below the bulge. The pin had a slight bit of movement but overall felt sturdy. We backed it up with a couple of medium-sized cams for the anchor. After the bulge moves, the climbing is relatively easy following up the gash about 25 ft until you find the bomber flake on the left that takes fist-size cams. We set the second belay about 5 feet below where the gash and flake meet (on the redline of the beta photo, this was about 2/3 up between "F" and "G").

From here, we traversed out climber's left and hugged the overhang/seam for about 20 feet. The overhang/seam gobbles up gear, but the climbing is pretty easy.

This is where we got off route possibly. As you follow the overhang/seam, you come to a "corner" (approximately between "G" and the where the red arrow of "H" go up). We crossed the seam there instead of finding the "excellent layback finger crack" in the description. This lead to a good 100+ feet of unprotected, albeit easy (5.3ish) face climbing until the dome eventually rounded out and became easy 4th class hiking. While on this sea of unprotectable granite, I noticed a small, left-facing flake/seam that looked to be able to take small cams, micro-nuts, and RPs about 25 feet to climber's right. I later figured out, that this was the continuation of the gash/crack system from P1/P2.

While the climbing on the third pitch was easy, it was a bit spooky running out 100+ feet on cheese grater slab. If I were to do it again, rather than traversing out left after P2 (as shown in the beta photo), I would of climbed the overlap/seam directly about belay 2 and followed up the left-facing flake/seam, throwing in a small piece ever so often "just in case". That seam tapered out just about where the 4th class hike up to the top began.

However you choose to get to the top of P3, lasso the obvious boulder, bring your partner up, and enjoy the view!

On a side note, the Lightning Bolt Cracks on the upper headwall looked awesome! We didn't have time to check them out, but we will be back to do so!

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