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Mallorca Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.5634, 2.9883 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 40,489
Administrators: Jason Halladay, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Jun 28, 2009
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Description 

Mallorca is the largest of the four Balearic Islands--Mallorca, Ibiza, Formentera and Menorca. The island's mountainous limestone interior is home to many epic sport routes and its craggy coast provides some of the most scenic deep water soloing in the world.

(I was there for a week and unfortunately won't get a chance to go back for a while. I've tried to only post information about climbs that I led, so obviously there's a lot out there I haven't put online. If you want control of one of the areas I've posted, I'm happy to cede it to you. I hope that the community will help flesh out this area and make it truly useful. -Anthony)

Guides and Beta 

Rockfax has a very comprehensive online route database which contains many routes--but few details, and they publish an indispensable climbing guide called simply Mallorca. Additionally, several of the deep water soloing crags of Mallorca are covered in the book Deep Water and in a supplement available for paid download called Mallorca Deep Water Soloing. DWS World also has some useful information on DWS areas in Mallorca. There is another guide called Psicobloc Mallorca written in both Spanish and English which covers both DWS and sport climbing in Mallorca.

General information on Mallorca can be found on its Wikipedia page.

Lonely Planet publishes a useful Travel Guide to Mallorca and has useful travel information on its website.

Locals report regular break-ins to cars. Do not leave anything of value in your car while you are at a crag. Leave your car with the glove compartment open and any shade over the cargo area of your vehicle removed to show that there is nothing worth stealing. I met a climber who saw the aftermath of several car break-ins (smashed glass, travelers crying over the loss of all their pictures...) in broad daylight at a busy beach area. Because he was camping, he was forced to carry everything that he owned where ever he went. Not fun! Plan accordingly.


Getting There 

Mallorca is easily accessed via its International Airport in Palma (PMI). There are also regular ferries that travel there from mainland Spain.

Climbing Season



Weather station 13.3 miles from here

127 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',21],['3 Stars',42],['2 Stars',28],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',8],['5.8',15],['5.9',13],['5.10',41],['5.11',27],['5.12',12],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mallorca

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mallorca:
Fortuna   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Cala Barques : Snatch Area
Coldron   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 25'   Cala Sa Nau : Virgin Area
Asuqui   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Cala Magraner
Bisexual   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Cala Barques : Metrosexual Area
Colesterol Party   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Cala Santanyi
Buf!!   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Alaró : Chorreras
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mallorca

Featured Route For Mallorca
Rock Climbing Photo: Klem on Strangers in Paradise. Dosage II screensho...

Strangers in Paradise 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  Europe : Spain : ... : Snatch Area
This line tackles the awesome set of tufas on the cave's right side. Begin either on the Snatch start pillar (traversing over the arch), or, more logically, from the ledge on the right side of the arch. Head up and right. Heading left into the end of snatch gets 8a and is known as Stranger Than Paradise....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Mallorca Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Warming up at the Virgin Area of Cala Sa Nau.
Warming up at the Virgin Area of Cala Sa Nau.
Rock Climbing Photo:  La Ley del Deseo:V+,V+,V-,V-,IV,V-, Sa Gubia. Pal...
La Ley del Deseo:V+,V+,V-,V-,IV,V-, Sa Gubia. Pal...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sa Creueta, Sector Dreta with Porto de Pollenca in...
Sa Creueta, Sector Dreta with Porto de Pollenca in...
Rock Climbing Photo: A DWS cliff across from the bolted routes at Cala ...
A DWS cliff across from the bolted routes at Cala ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris crushing Metrosexual at the Metrosexual Area...
Chris crushing Metrosexual at the Metrosexual Area...
Rock Climbing Photo: A satellite image of Mallorca.
BETA PHOTO: A satellite image of Mallorca.

Comments on Mallorca Add Comment
Show which comments
By D. Durrant
From: Utah, USA
Oct 1, 2009
What a perfect place to climb on perfect limestone. We thought we would crag a little and DWS a lot but it was the opposite. The crags were so varied and the views were so wonderful that we just had to check out as many as possible. There are at least 44 crags on the island, not including the dozens of DWS cliffs. The best part of Mallorca was trying to decide where to climb, what beach to visit, what to eat and drink. Climbing is only part of the attraction. Only a small portion of the potential has been developed. As far as the DWS goes, what a blast. Bring or buy a 60 foot piece of rope and tie knots in it to help get out of the water. Most sea cliffs are under cut so you either swim to an exit, which can be far, or use your rope to assist with your climb out of the water. The best time to Psicobloc is mid to late summer as the water is much warmer.
By David Kozak
Apr 28, 2012
Could someone please tell me what the weather is like on Mallorca during the months of December and January? Thx.
By Braxtron
From: ...
Apr 29, 2012
David, please click here.
By D. Durrant
From: Utah, USA
Jun 17, 2012
Let me recommend you find one of the may climbing shops on Mallorca and purchase the guide but the Mallorcan Miquel Riera, it is much more comprehensive than the Rockfax guide.
By MAKB
Administrator
From: Potrero Chico, MEX
Sep 10, 2013
By Couloirman Schmiddy
From: Providence, RI
Jul 6, 2014
Any updates on overall DWS access on the island? Here are the articles I am referring to. Anyone been climbing at the popular DWS areas recently? Are the signs banning climbing still in place? Are people climbing anyway? Such a shame to lose such an amazing place. I went a few years ago and am dying to go back, but not if DWS is banned.

ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?i...
climbing.co.za/2014/02/update-...
By Warren Schaefer
From: Wheat Ridge, CO
Feb 7, 2016
mallorca-access-update-may-14

Mallorca Access Update
By dmPete
Apr 30, 2017
Just visited the island in March 2017. Had a blast, but learned a few important things while I there that I thought would be worth passing along:

1) The Rockfax Guidebook was indispensable, fantastically written, and with the exception of being able to provide current hardware condition at each of the crags (which is virtually impossible), was right on the money.

2) It's an island with a lot of crags that are exposed to more elements than mainland crags would be, and a lot of the rock is limestone. Limestone + sea air doesn't bode well for long life of stainless steel (and even worse for steel plated) hardware. Literally between 50% and 75% of the bolts at each of the crags suffered from rust to a degree like I'd never seen anywhere else before. Often, the routes tagged as classics had fresh gear, but even these had the occasional rusted out nut and washer on them. Even more interesting was that a route could look to have new hardware but you may be surprised to find a rusted out anchor held together by years-old loops of tat.

3) The grades are hard. I've heard folks talk about Smith Rock (Bend, Oregon, USA) as sandbagged. Mallorca's routes are graded on a similar scale. Rarely will you find a route that's much easier than the Rockfax guidebook suggests.

4) At all 6 crags I visited, the bolts were all placed intelligently and fairly close together. Though I might have wondered on occasion whether I'd rip a bolt if I whipped, I never wanted for closer spacing or better locations of the hangers.

5) A quick breakdown by crag:

a) La Creveta: Fantastic location, poor hardware maintenance and a small number of maintained routes, none of them over 5.10c. As importantly, this area offers almost exclusively razor sharp crimps. I was chagrined to find myself wondering if I'd rip my fingers up too much on my first day of climbing here to be able to climb on subsequent days. Probably best kept for one day, and near the end of your trip.

b) Alaro (only climbed at Chorreras): Had my best two crag days here. The location is not as big and breathtaking as Creveta, but it's serene and the wall is wonderful, nestled up in the mountains. The trip is worth it alone for the magnificent route, "Buf!" and don't get too greedy, because there isn't much else in that sector near the grade with shiny hardware.

c) Puig St. Marti: This area offers almost exclusively 5.9 grade routes and below. It's not especially impressive, however the view from the crag is quite nice. If you're just getting into climbing or really need a day to ease off, this place will provide. If you're looking for 5.10 intensity or higher, go elsewhere.

d) Xon Xanquete: I didn't climb here, but was intrigued enough to make the approach and check out the steepness. Wish I'd brought my gear. The two (I literally only was able to identify two) lines with good hardware looked awesome, and the location is stunning. Probably only worth it if you're climbing at a project grade of 5.12a and like 45 degree overhang. Otherwise the crag won't offer much.

e) El Fumat: The most picturesque, beautiful crag we visited. It didn't hurt that there were a number of very high quality routes, all with fresh staple bolts. If you climb 10s and 11s, this place will provide at least a full day of very solid climbing. For those who climb harder, this area would be a great warm-up day. And either way, it would make for a better first day in Mallorca than, say, La Crevetia, in my opinion.

f) Valldemossa: Fun crag, truly novel location, and especially worthwhile if you are interested in projecting Sostre Den Burotet. Without this route on the roster, I feel like this crag would still be fun, but far less of a draw.

There are certainly plenty of other crags on the island (notably, the huge, Sa Gubia), so my account is limited to these six areas, but I hope it helps if you're planning to climb there.

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