REI Community
Happy Hour Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are We Not Men T,TR 
Are We Not Robots T,TR 
Baby Aliens T 
Bad Sneakers TR 
Bent Faith T 
Big Spit, The T 
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 
Cruel Shoes TR 
Dementia T,TR 
Great Race, The T 
Grins T,TR 
Hands Off T 
I, Robot T,TR 
Last Call T,TR 
Last Laugh T,S,TR 
Left Side T 
Malign T,TR 
Nightcap T,TR 
Rush Hour T,TR 
Seein' Double TR 
Skid Row T 
Teetotaler T,S,TR 
Tipsey T,TR 
Twofers T,TR 
Twofers Bypass T,TR 
Twofers Gully T,TR 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 5,417
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 11, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (128)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Near the bottom.

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Climb as for Dementia until you reach the small, blocky roof just below the cool arete/dihedral. Go to the right, under this roof, then up a short distance to something of a ledge. From there, look to the right again and climb the left-facing corner to a left-facing flake/corner, then up a right-facing corner above the flake to the top. Although this sounds like a wandering line, it is actually quite direct, and little drag will result if you use a few 2-foot runners.


    Standard light rack up to 3". The line is reasonably easy to protect.

    Photos of Malign Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: 7. Last Call, 9+. 8. Dementia, 10a. 9. Malign, 7. ...
    BETA PHOTO: 7. Last Call, 9+. 8. Dementia, 10a. 9. Malign, 7. ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: First piece (tricam) protecting short traverse bef...
    BETA PHOTO: First piece (tricam) protecting short traverse bef...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Last 15 feet on Malign.
    BETA PHOTO: Last 15 feet on Malign.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Not sure what route the two bolts are for.  Photo:...
    BETA PHOTO: Not sure what route the two bolts are for. Photo:...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Joel Larner leading Malign.
    Joel Larner leading Malign.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at belayer from halfway up Malign.
    BETA PHOTO: Looking down at belayer from halfway up Malign.

    Comments on Malign Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 7, 2017
    By shad O'Neel
    Nov 11, 2003

    Regardless of ratings, I think this climb is [trickier] than its 5.8 [neighbor, Grins]. It's got some interesting moves and [isn't] that [wandering], great gear the whole way except maybe right off the ground depending how you start. [I'd] vote for 1.5 stars, it's worth doing.
    By Charles Danforth
    From: L'ville, CO
    May 27, 2005
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    An interesting and varied climb. My wife thought it was tricky and didn't like it, but its puzzling nature is what makes it fun. A tallented newby climber cruised up this route with not much problem and came down shaking with terror. "That's _really_ high up there!" she commented. Amen.

    If you rig a TR anchor from the small ledge at the top of Night Cap, you'll be looking at a long swing around some sharp edges. Dropping an anchor over the ledge about 8' to climber's right of Night Cap is probably optimal. From the ground, I can see a set of chains that might work, but I'll be damned if I can find them up top! Knowing Happy Hour, it's probably a mid-5th class scramble just to get there. Let us all remember the lesson of Mike Sofranko and Happy Hour... :-(
    By Joel Larner
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Jun 18, 2005
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    This is a solid and sustained 5.7. The key is it is sustained. I had a friend who climbs 5.7 but rarely makes 5.8 that went up it quick and easy. I'll use that as a good [gauge] on the rating. Lots of varied moves make it fun.

    It is quite long for a Happy Hour climb. Previous posting noted setting the anchor in the block above Nightcap. Instead I went left at that block and set the anchor off the tree (looks dead at first glance but is very much alive) and a few pieces to back it up. You can see the plaque for Mike from the anchor stance, and comfortably escape off to the top whey you want to pull the anchor later. Rope then comes down directly between Malign and Nightcap. At the anchor I was a little ways past half rope. Pulling all my pro on the belay down to let the rope hang straight instead of curving right in the route freed up enough rope to make it back to the ground. As you then climb to the right near the top, flick the rope over the rock and you're fine. I also TR'd Nightcap off this anchor and it was fine.

    Lots of excellent opportunities for Pro on this route. A 5.7 lead will tend to put in a lot of pro since it is sustained 5.7, but be careful of the resultant rope drag due to all that pro and the right wandering nature of the route.

    DON'T use the chains above "Thrill of the Chase" for this route. They are way to far left. You'll be looking at a huge swing and some good non-equalized side loading on the chains.
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 22, 2005

    This route is a lot more fun than it looks from below. Nice variety, good length, takes good pro but requires some thoughtful footwork to get comfortable stances. A great lead for the grade if at the crag. imho, grins has a harder crux.
    By Dmitriy Zinchenko
    Oct 19, 2005
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    This was one of my first 5.7 leads and is quite momorable. Fun variations of moves keep things interesting and the gear is usually quite abundant. I was able to place anything from a blue TCU to a 3.5 Camalot, but since the route is a bit on the long side for Happy Hour, pack an adequate amount of pro. Right before the top you will see two finger-ish cracks: keep to the left one to avoid crossing ropes with anyone on Nightcap. Also, the belay ledge is quite roomy enough for two or three, should you need to share it.
    By Kevin Craig
    Aug 15, 2006

    Not sure about the "sustained" comment. Sure, many of the moves are 5.7, but there are also good rests after every 3-4 (maybe 5) moves (or maybe I'm just lazier/better at finding rests than many) ;^) There's a short OW about half way up. There's good gear below this, and a double length sling can be used to sling a chockstone near the end of the OW, but it's a bit strenuous to get in place. All-in-all a good, well-protected climb, if you're creative.
    By Matt Gates
    From: Pinewood Springs, CO
    Nov 19, 2006
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I don't recommend using the trees near the top for an anchor. Too sketchy IMHO.

    The OW was the mental crux for me because of the lack of pro. Yes, there is good pro below and above, but it sure seemed run out to me. Anyone else? I used my cordalette and set a fine anchor at the top of Nightcap.
    By farkas.time
    From: Albuquerque, NM
    Jul 19, 2011
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I found this route lots of fun. I'm a new trad leader, and found it easy to protect, with good moves, and nice and long. Don't be fooled by D'Antonio's single star. This is good!

    For pro, bring single and double-length slings, as there are quite a few good spots for them during the climb, as well as at the top for a bomber anchor.

    If you're looking for something a bit spicier, you can traverse climber's left about 15 meters and do an easy down-climb to the chains above Thrill of the Chase. Good TR. Use slings to protect the traverse.
    By Jesse Trimble
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 29, 2013
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    While leading this for the first time, I thought about slinging the chockstone in the off-width part. Wasn't quite able to get it, so I moved on without, but when I moved above it and stood on the chockstone, it moved under my weight very slightly. So it may not be a trustworthy feature for pro.
    By Dankasaurus
    From: Lyons, CO
    Jun 27, 2015

    Good route for new trad leaders. Plentiful gear, and if you bring large passive stuff, you can sink it everywhere. Fun!
    By Dirk Diggler
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Mar 8, 2016
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Sweet route. Climb it with only a set of nuts. There are many good places to put passive gear in.
    By Tradgic Yogurt
    Aug 7, 2017

    I was wondering how the OW would go. Turns out, it goes quite nicely if you reach in and find the crimp rail on the left bottom half. The route seemed at most 5.6 except for maybe one or two spots.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About