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Malice 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jeff G
Page Views: 644
Submitted By: Climberdude on Sep 18, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Working through crux #2 on Malice

Description 

Start 20' right of Razor Flakes.
Climb up easy terrain to first bolt.
Make hard initial move (crux#1) into an under cling. Power up to pockets at second bolt. Climb through 3 or 4 powerful moves(crux#2) to small rail at 3rd bolt.
Tenuous moves follow to small flake directly above. Then make a very cool sequence of moves to the left and another flake at 4th bolt. Make 2 or 3 big moves up and right(crux #3) to juggy ledge and 5th bolt. Move right to another jug flake and get your feet on the juggy ledge and move back left then up to anchors.

Optionally at 5th bolt move LEFT and finish on Razor flake.


Nice moves with some sequential, technical climbing and some burliness.

Protection 

5 bolts and anchors.


Photos of Malice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Malice on a beauty of a September afternoon
Malice on a beauty of a September afternoon
Rock Climbing Photo: Malice
Malice

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By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Sep 10, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a great route. 2 stars because of the drilled pockets and it tends to get a bit dirty but holy cow is the climbing ever fun.

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