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Malice Alice  

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Sean Ward and Chuck Carlson
Season: Fall through Spring
Page Views: 232
Submitted By: Patrick Mulligan on Feb 20, 2013

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start at the obvious finger crack on the right hand wall (when approaching route) and climb through varnished rock into a pink band and through 3-4 small ceilings. At the final ceiling traverse right and protect in a hueco and climb the crispy but easier face to the top

Location 

Directly across from SandMan (near Meisters Edge) is a corridor running to the east. Walk down this corridor and you will see the route beginning on the right. Its steep and the top has rock that looks a little less than inspiring.

Protection 

single rack through #2 camalot. Doubles in the finger sizes.


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By Patrick Mulligan
Feb 20, 2013

There was around a year when I lived in Vegas when Chris Burton would suggest we do these climbs he would always refer to as obscure classics. The two climbs I remember most from those "obscure" days are Malice Alice and Shit Howdy. Most of the climbs were at about my limit, but somehow he would always coax me into and through the lead. On this particular day we walked back into this area and I racked up a little apprehensively as the route looked appealing down low, but crispy and sandy up high. It climbed better than it looked.

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