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Malbol (hornet) 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Akdong club
Page Views: 25
Submitted By: Alec Ferguson on Aug 13, 2010

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Description 

This gorgeous route exemplifies the Yongseo style: reachy, strange body positioning, and deeply satisfying to climb. It's one of the classics of Yongseo and requires unique movements. Named after the poor hornets whose nest was destroyed to make way for this masterpiece.

The climb starts up an arete that requires balance and groping for holds that fortunately are good. Continue up a crack to a ledge. Plunge forth into the downward- and outward-flared chimney. Balance and creativity are put to the test. Catch a breath before the all-out roof and thin face at the top.

Location 

This route is on the upper-left tier of Yongseo. Walk toward the blue latrine (West) and find a trail cutting right up the hill. Continue to a cliff with three climbs. Walk right (East) along the ledge until this ledge basically ends. Malbol is written in Korean on the cliff: 말벌, 5.11d.

Look up and you will see the downward- and outward-flaring chimney.

Protection 

14 quickdraws. One shoulder-length sling is highly recommended for the bolt under the roof--otherwise rope drag will be horrendous.

A 60 meter rope barely reaches. Don't use anything shorter.

Description 

This gorgeous route exemplifies the Yongseo style: reachy, strange body positioning, and deeply satisfying to climb. It's one of the classics of Yongseo and requires unique movements. Named after the poor hornets whose nest was destroyed to make way for this masterpiece.

The climb starts up an arete that requires balance and groping for holds that fortunately are good. Continue up a crack to a ledge. Plunge forth into the downward- and outward-flared chimney. Balance and creativity are put to the test. Catch a breath before the all-out roof and thin face at the top.

Location 

This route is on the upper-left tier of Yongseo. Walk toward the blue latrine (West) and find a trail cutting right up the hill. Continue to a cliff with three climbs. Walk right (East) along the ledge until this ledge basically ends. Malbol is written in Korean on the cliff: 말벌, 5.11d.

Look up and you will see the downward- and outward-flaring chimney.

Protection 

14 quickdraws. One shoulder-length sling is highly recommended for the bolt under the roof--otherwise rope drag will be horrendous.

A 60 meter rope barely reaches. Don't use anything shorter.


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