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Malaria 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 319
Submitted By: Colin R on Sep 14, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Some "coaching" on Malaria.

Description 

Start low under a small cave with right hand at the lip (low start is V5). Once you hit the rail you have to match and move out left for the pumpy and awkward lip traverse for which there is multiple beta. Some people try to heel hook and work their way out the lip before the awkward mantle. I campused through this section as my heel felt insecure but either way its hard.

We need some pics of this....

Location 

Near the pond, obvious roof problem starting low.

Protection 

Make sure you get a pad low to protect your back from the sharp slab on the opening move.


Comments on Malaria Add Comment
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By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Sep 14, 2013

Original grade by the first ascenionist was V4 however I did it with three other strong climbers and the consensus was V5 at a minimum (possibly even harder). Normally I avoid uprating something put up by someone else but V4 climbers will likely be shut down completely on this.
By Jeremy Penman
Apr 3, 2014
rating: V4 6B

solid v4
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Apr 3, 2014

Just have a look "The Bullfighter's Friend" which is a nearby problem rated V4:

www.mountainproject.com/v/108601757

Malaria is obviously steeper, has a harder start, uses crappier holds and has a more awkward topout = V5...

But you're free to make up your own mind.

Really nice problem regardless.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Apr 5, 2014

Also, for what it's worth the climbers I was with that day who all sent Malaria were Jeff and Ryan K. from Coyote's as well as JM from Altitude and myself. If you are going to keep this as V4 you need to downrate a bunch of other stuff too like Bullfighter. The consensus among all of us was that it is underrated at V4. Again, you're welcome to your opinion but I don't generally uprate things unless its really warranted.
By Mriss
May 15, 2014
rating: V4 6B

Heel hooks are the key! Kinda pumpy near the end/switching heel to left side.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Jun 1, 2014

I downrated it to V4/5 but I am not going any lower. I think its silly to say this is anything other than a full grade harder than Bullfighter which is currently V3/4..
By wkh
Jun 2, 2014
rating: V4 6B

I think part of the disparity in grading has to do with the starting position, the low start on the prominent edge is far more awkward than starting one hand in the higher pocket/jug then moving to the lip (as per the guide description). In any case the big move at the end feels hard if you spend too long moving across the lip and get pumped. I flashed it a while back but have had trouble repeating, it is definitely solid!
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Jun 2, 2014

Thanks for the info. Yeah I didn't catch that description in the guidebook but rather did the low start. It was one of those keep-your-butt-off-the-ground moves that would probably be easier if the ground wasn't there.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Nov 14, 2014

Switching this to V4 and adding "Malaria Low" as V5

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