Two Options, both entail a 45-50min approach.
P1:(WI4+) Climb the steep but steppy right side to a sheltered ledge belay with a slung tree, about 150' up.
P2:(WI5)Continue up the right side to a 45' column surrounded by cauliflower ice, above here one may find a pin anchor to rap from, or continue up the next curtain to a pin or screw anchor at the frozen pool. Approx. 190'
P1:(WI5)Climb the steeper (and often thinner) left side, belaying from screws in an icy cave 180' from the ground.
P2: (WI5)Leave the belay, traverse right about 15-20', then up the steep pillar presenting itself to you.
If you will be rapping off, step right and downclimb a short way to the pin anchor mentioned in option 1 above.
If you will be walking off, continue up the next shorter pillar to the frozen pool.
P3: (WI3)Solo (or rope up, whatever floats your boat) a 50' section of WI3 to gain the gully above. To walk off, continue up the drainage a bit, then gain the ridgeline directly east. The trail drops steeply down to the original canyon you began in, but farther up from where your packs will be.
If you're in the proper canyon, you can't miss this one... it's a biggie! Walk-off details mentioned above, if you're going to rap the route, bring v-thread materials just in case.
BETA PHOTO: Malan's, showing the two options (majid style) for...
Ace Welton, runnin' out a line center-right.
Coming out of the left side P1 belay, some 'cicles...
From: Palmer, AK
Dec 29, 2009
The right conditions are sometimes hard to catch, beware of the second pitch, when its warm ice will be falling in large car sized pieces. But when its right, its a real treat!