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"Peary Face" Left & Right S,TR 
"Peary Gates" Left & Right  S,TR 
Barge Variation T 
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Mako Roof 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob Parrot and Steve Buchan 7/7/1979
Season: year round
Page Views: 503
Submitted By: Tristan Baldwin on Dec 1, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The route starts below the thread and heads left a...


Mako roof makes its way up though some steep blocky features before making a throw for a horizontal beneath a large roof. A very pumpy hand traverse leads to a somewhat desperate clip and a V3+ boulder problem to establish on the large flake. Clip the 3rd bolt and go up about 6-10 feet of much lower angle rock and clip the anchor. An extension could easily be added to this route as the steep slab continues up another 20 meters of so. While there aren't any showstopper moves on this, the boulder problem is pretty powerful and it comes right at the end of a very pumpy traverse and the long throw to the horizontal. If you have the traverse and clip dialed this may feel soft in the grade, but the onsight may feel stiff. The rock quality is superb with good friction but not sharp.


Left most route that starts under the large roofs on the right side of the South Face


Thread followed by 3 bolts. Only 1 bolt anchor!!

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By Ian Grant
From: Cambridge
Dec 9, 2015

Anyone know what condition these bolts are in? Any decent gear placements?
By Tristan Baldwin
From: Amherst, NH
Dec 9, 2015

The last time I was there the bolts in this route appeared to be in great shape and rock quality is for the most part superb. The thread might be a little suspect now so you might consider stick clipping up to the first bolt. The line bakes in the sun all day. The roof or trees might shade it in mid summer, but I suspect not. As a result, I doubt there is ever any real moisture on the route so the bolts should last a nice long time. There are definitely gear placements until you make it left around the roof. I forget exactly what is above that, but I don't remember anything worthwhile.

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