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Makin Muffins 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Eden Masters, Scott Ayers 1991
Page Views: 183
Submitted By: Vincent Greene on Sep 26, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Look for a pair of bolted lines on the left side of a chimney on the Blazing Fin. Makin Muffins is the right hand line. Stick to the right and follow the bolts to the chains. Fun route with interesting moves.


bolts (approx 7 or 8) and chain anchors.

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By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 5, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I wouldn't call it 5.8, but this is at the upper end of 5.7. It's a long way to the first bolt and a long way down Willow Canyon if you roll off the cliff.
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Mar 2, 2008

I think this route is actually pretty fun. Great moderate slab climbing. The first bolt is on very solid terrain i would say.
By David Buhite
May 13, 2009

The first bolt is a good 20 feet up. While the climb is only 5.7, if you don't make it to the first bolt you're looking at a pretty nasty ground fall and tumble down the mountain. While I'm not an advocate of overbolting, it doesn't make much sense to put up a 5.7 sport route that you have to solo the first 20 feet of. Maybe I should have brought a stick clip, but a bolt at 10-15 feet would make more sense to me.
By Cody M
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 23, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree with David - high first bolt and iffy moves just below and above it. Freaked me out a bit.
By Andrew Nelson
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you are a 5.7 climber you will probably be a bit freaked out by the two run outs on this route. The obvious, and most dangerous one, is at the bottom before your first bolt. The second (that I remember) is up top getting to the anchors. Both are on easy ground, but not necessarily something a 5.7 leader would want to encounter...
By Nick Henscheid
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 21, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I think this is a pretty great little route. This would be a good way to warm your head up for climbing in Cochise or Joshua tree - tricky, technical low-angle moves with a few spicy sections (up to the first bolt and near the top). If you start to the left of the initial bulge, standing on a rock, the mantle moves to the first bolt are 5.7PG (don't fall, it would suck).

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