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Big Schloss
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Are you read'y speed king? T,TR 
Make it hap'n cap'n T,TR 
You have beautiful features T,TR 

Make it hap'n cap'n 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: James Miller or unknown
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 258
Submitted By: yositune on May 25, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The view from the north side of the Big Schloss fr...

Description 

The climb was cleaned and climbed on 5/23/15 on rappel then TR'd and lead. Fun climb with great views to the East side valley and the north side of Big Schloss. A very Seneca'y feel but with easy setup for toprope anchors and a nice top-managed belay setup with a belay ledge.

The trees at the top make for an easy TR anchor setup although there is also gear at the top. Edges aren't bad but easy protection for bringing ropes over the top make it easy to drop and master points to the left for rigging a releasable rappel with top rope belay.

There are no overhanging roofs above this climb and loose blocks were pulled and rocks cleaned from the obvious ledges or holds. Overall a fun climb with a mix of feet and hands all the way.

Location 

Coming up towards the footbridge at the top of Big Schloss, to the right there is a wall with a prominent nose towards the corner as it rolls to the east face with several obvious lines. On that East facing wall to the right of the nose is an obvious dihedral from the heavily wooded base of the climb to the top ledge. Walking into the small grove and walking towards the lip notice several trees 30-35' back from east facing ledge.

Rapping to the bottom from a top-rope anchor is recommended. The base of the climb can be approached either taking the trail around the west side or over top to the north side of big schloss and then walking around the east face. The area is heavily wooded with potential rock hazards. Climbers were unable to reach the base of the climb hiking from the east side.

Rapping down from anchors off the trees is recommended.

Note the area shows no sign of active climbing and loose rock may exist. Exercise caution for rockfall or other hazards. Note a rattlesnake was active at the top of the climbing area on 5/24/15.

Protection 

standard rack. placements availble for larger pieces especially on the more solid blocks in horizontal cracks.


Photos of Make it hap'n cap'n Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view to the right (north) of the climb wit...
Another view to the right (north) of the climb wit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of the beautiful overhung sections un...
BETA PHOTO: Another view of the beautiful overhung sections un...
Rock Climbing Photo: The area to the left of the dihedral does not seem...
The area to the left of the dihedral does not seem...
Rock Climbing Photo: The area to the right including the obvious nose i...
BETA PHOTO: The area to the right including the obvious nose i...
Rock Climbing Photo: View looking up at the top of the climb
View looking up at the top of the climb
Rock Climbing Photo: Avoid the left of the route's obvious dihedral run...
BETA PHOTO: Avoid the left of the route's obvious dihedral run...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the route
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view from the base of the climb
BETA PHOTO: Another view from the base of the climb
Rock Climbing Photo: view of the start of the climb from the lower ledg...
BETA PHOTO: view of the start of the climb from the lower ledg...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the route from the base of the climb with ...
BETA PHOTO: View of the route from the base of the climb with ...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the ledge at the top a top-managed belay.
View of the ledge at the top a top-managed belay.

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